Camped at Carn Boel , my first night under canvas (well actually some modern light weight equivalent). The location is superb, on the top of the cliffs overlooking the light house, the sun is setting on this lovely Spring Equinox day. This morning I had no idea that my adventure would start today but I was ready, the weather was good and looks good for two days so why delay? Kerriann was happy to give me a lift to Lands End and before it had really sunk in I was on the path to John O’Groats. I feel a strange mixture of excitement, confusion and sadness at leaving loved ones behind.
A long day walking around 15 miles crammed with wonderful Cornish sacred sites. According to Paul Broadhurst and the late Hamish Miller, Carn les Boel is the point at which the Michael and Mary energy lines first touch English (or at least Cornish) soil. There is undeniably an atmosphere about the place. It is special, very special, especially on a lovely Spring morning. Today’s walk took in more ancient and evocative locations than I would have thought possible. The pre-Christian holy wells of Alsia and Sancreed were particularly impressive, the first for its simple rustic charm and the second for the deep, moody, powerful, spells it casts over its visitors. I was on my own at all the sacred sites I visited today with the exception of the lonely daffodil at Boscawen-un stone circle where I sat and rested and conversed with the solitary flower. It was clear that the stone circles and holy wells of west Cornwall are still used for ritual and healing – little has changed round hear for several thousand years…..
There is a very unhealthy disrespect for public rights of way in West Cornwall- so few footpath signs and so many ploughed-up field crossings, so many bramble filled paths, so many farmers that seem to have deliberately removed all footpath markers. We need to keep these old tracks open; we must use them.
Had a good fish pie in The Fishermans last night, and a chat with Andy who used to live in Boscastle.
The weather forecast is not good for tomorrow …….
Have just stopped for the first of many (I hope) cream teas. Have passed the magnificent St. Michael’s Mount and am reminded of walking the South West Coastal path with my friend Anthony who proved to be one of those very rare breeds: the perfect walking partner. When Anthony and I were here last we were togged up in waterproof leggings and coats – today I am stripping off the layers as the sun breaks through the morning haze.