Barbed Wire and Soggy Skies

Last night I set up my wild camped rather late as it was beside a farmers field and there was no farmer to ask. I followed the golden rule: set up late and leave early. I don’t think I was noticed by anyone other than the rabbits. It was lovely watching the full moon rise behind my tent silhouetting the blackthorn hedge. The tent is getting a little damp with condensation – I think this is mainly due to the cold still nights. We will soon find out as the forecast is for some rough weather.

full moon rising through trees
Full Moon Rising

Today had few highs and lots of lows. The wet drizzle was a pain.It’s the sort of rain that gets everywhere and saps your spirit. This wasn’t helped by the farmers that have plowed up the rights of way, removed the signs, and even put barbed wire across some of the paths. So I got muddy and wet finding my way around the blatant removal of footpaths. Thank heavens for the GPS. One farm (Ro… Farm) was particularly bad and added an hour to my traveling time.

Another bad habit some of the local farmers indulge in is to increase the height of their stiles presumably to make them more stock-proof. This would be fine if done properly but fixing thin wood battens or bits of old rusty iron that can’t take the weight of a person make them very hard to manoeuvre over especially with a large pack on your back. So, again, I got wet, muddy and cross.

However I did have some nice experiences too – I sat in Crowan church and brewed a cup of tea – a local kindly showed me where the fresh water tap was hidden in the wall. I also recharged my phone in the church – I was sure they wouldn’t mind. Having recharged myself and my phone I lit a candle for Hugo and Kerriann who I am missing terribly.

Throughout the afternoon the rain was persistent as was the mud. But I did visit St Piran’s Holy well. The last time I was here I was with Paul Broadhurst whose book The Sun and the Serpent revealed the Michael alignment across the country with its associated Mary and Michael currents that I am loosely following during this part of my walk. I put my head down and kept walking and decided to try and find a B & B for the night as putting a tent up in the rain is no fun.

map of Michael Line highlighted in orange
A somewhat circuitous route

Cutting a long story short I have ended up in a Premier Inn as all the pubs and B & Bs are full. It is Easter weekend after all. At least I can have a long soak in the bath and wash some clothes. I have had a look at the very indirect path that the Mary Michael Pilgrim’s Way takes tomorrow and think that I will take a slightly more direct route. I am sure to miss some lovely sites but it is also important that I make reasonable progress towards Scotland!


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