Walking on the cliffs above Boscastle and thinking about my up and coming walk I was distracted by the repetitive cackling of a seagull. It sounded like the demented laugh of an old hag. I can understand her laughing at my stupid quest, I am not fit enough for this, I am overweight and have not done any real training other than extending my dog walks a little.
My knees ache and click when I bend them and my back lets me know when I bend over to lift anything. The last long walk I did was across Spain some 12 years ago; I was younger and fitter then. But I have popped some anti inflammatory pills in my ruck sack – lets hope that modern medicine can drive away the aches and pains that seem to have visited me in the last few years.
Maybe the gull was not laughing but applauding?
Setting Off
As the weather was sunny yet cool yesterday, Graham decided to head off on his 1200 mile walk to John O’Groats a little early. Hugo, our chorkie, was not impressed and wanted to join him but Graham went off alone on his great adventure.
At 1608 hrs he strode off into the distance to spend the night at Carn Les Boel near the start of the Michael Line.
Below is the route he’ll be following:
Lands End
– Mary/Michael Pilgrimage path
– Grand Western Canal path
Glastonbury
– Summits of Somerset Way
Bristol
– Summits of Somerset Way
Chepstow
– Wye Valley Walk
Monmouth
– Wye Valley Walk
Hereford
– Wye Valley Walk
Hay on Wye
– Offa’s Dyke
Kington
– Offa’s Dyke
Knighton
– Offa’s Dyke
LLangollen
– Dee way
Chester
– Shropshire Union canal
– North Cheshire Way
Northwich
– Cheshire ring canal walk
– some road walking
Salford Way
Manchester
– Thirlmere way
Kendal
– Thirlmere way
Windermere
Ambleside – Thirlmere way
– Cumbria Way
Carlisle
– Hadrians wall
Haltwistle
St Winifreds way
Edinburgh
– Edinburgh Glasgow canal
Glasgow
– Kelvin Walkway
– West Highland Way
Fort William
– Great Glen Way
Inverness
– John O’Groats trail
John O’Groats !!!!
Weight Loss Program 🙂
Graham wants to see how much fitter he’ll get on his long walk so he checked his weight before he started yesterday. A rather extreme way to get fit I think.
Busy With the Camera
Graham has been busy sending through photos of some of the sacred sites he has visited to day on his Lands End to John O’Groats walk. All of these sites are around the St Buryan area of west Cornwall.
Reflections on Days 1 and 2
21st March
Camped at Carn Boel , my first night under canvas (well actually some modern light weight equivalent). The location is superb, on the top of the cliffs overlooking the light house, the sun is setting on this lovely Spring Equinox day. This morning I had no idea that my adventure would start today but I was ready, the weather was good and looks good for two days so why delay? Kerriann was happy to give me a lift to Lands End and before it had really sunk in I was on the path to John O’Groats. I feel a strange mixture of excitement, confusion and sadness at leaving loved ones behind.
22nd March
A long day walking around 15 miles crammed with wonderful Cornish sacred sites. According to Paul Broadhurst and the late Hamish Miller, Carn les Boel is the point at which the Michael and Mary energy lines first touch English (or at least Cornish) soil. There is undeniably an atmosphere about the place. It is special, very special, especially on a lovely Spring morning. Today’s walk took in more ancient and evocative locations than I would have thought possible. The pre-Christian holy wells of Alsia and Sancreed were particularly impressive, the first for its simple rustic charm and the second for the deep, moody, powerful, spells it casts over its visitors. I was on my own at all the sacred sites I visited today with the exception of the lonely daffodil at Boscawen-un stone circle where I sat and rested and conversed with the solitary flower. It was clear that the stone circles and holy wells of west Cornwall are still used for ritual and healing – little has changed round hear for several thousand years…..
There is a very unhealthy disrespect for public rights of way in West Cornwall- so few footpath signs and so many ploughed-up field crossings, so many bramble filled paths, so many farmers that seem to have deliberately removed all footpath markers. We need to keep these old tracks open; we must use them.
Had a good fish pie in The Fishermans last night, and a chat with Andy who used to live in Boscastle.
The weather forecast is not good for tomorrow …….
Have just stopped for the first of many (I hope) cream teas. Have passed the magnificent St. Michael’s Mount and am reminded of walking the South West Coastal path with my friend Anthony who proved to be one of those very rare breeds: the perfect walking partner. When Anthony and I were here last we were togged up in waterproof leggings and coats – today I am stripping off the layers as the sun breaks through the morning haze.
A Walk Along the Cornish Coast
Yesterday (day 3) I stumbled across St Germoe’s Church. I sat and mad a cup of tea in the porch. St Germoes seat ( pictured below) has that most amazing acoustic – try siting in the centre seat and singing – it’s incredible!
Today I’m heading off to Stithians. Thank heavens I managed to pack up and start walking before the rain came in. It’s been cold at night but I’m snug and warm in my little tent.
Tilley Talk from Top to Toosh
I just met a couple of people on the coast path today. One woman said, ‘is that a Tilley hat you’re wearing? You should tell them about your adventure- I shouldn’t tell you this but I’m wearing Tilley knickers!’
Thankfully we don’t have a photo of the lady in her knickers but here’s one of me in my hat.
Loving my Tilley hat as I walk past St Michael’s Mount in Cornwall
Barbed Wire and Soggy Skies
Last night I set up my wild camped rather late as it was beside a farmers field and there was no farmer to ask. I followed the golden rule: set up late and leave early. I don’t think I was noticed by anyone other than the rabbits. It was lovely watching the full moon rise behind my tent silhouetting the blackthorn hedge. The tent is getting a little damp with condensation – I think this is mainly due to the cold still nights. We will soon find out as the forecast is for some rough weather.
Today had few highs and lots of lows. The wet drizzle was a pain.It’s the sort of rain that gets everywhere and saps your spirit. This wasn’t helped by the farmers that have plowed up the rights of way, removed the signs, and even put barbed wire across some of the paths. So I got muddy and wet finding my way around the blatant removal of footpaths. Thank heavens for the GPS. One farm (Ro… Farm) was particularly bad and added an hour to my traveling time.
Another bad habit some of the local farmers indulge in is to increase the height of their stiles presumably to make them more stock-proof. This would be fine if done properly but fixing thin wood battens or bits of old rusty iron that can’t take the weight of a person make them very hard to manoeuvre over especially with a large pack on your back. So, again, I got wet, muddy and cross.
However I did have some nice experiences too – I sat in Crowan church and brewed a cup of tea – a local kindly showed me where the fresh water tap was hidden in the wall. I also recharged my phone in the church – I was sure they wouldn’t mind. Having recharged myself and my phone I lit a candle for Hugo and Kerriann who I am missing terribly.
Throughout the afternoon the rain was persistent as was the mud. But I did visit St Piran’s Holy well. The last time I was here I was with Paul Broadhurst whose book The Sun and the Serpent revealed the Michael alignment across the country with its associated Mary and Michael currents that I am loosely following during this part of my walk. I put my head down and kept walking and decided to try and find a B & B for the night as putting a tent up in the rain is no fun.
Cutting a long story short I have ended up in a Premier Inn as all the pubs and B & Bs are full. It is Easter weekend after all. At least I can have a long soak in the bath and wash some clothes. I have had a look at the very indirect path that the Mary Michael Pilgrim’s Way takes tomorrow and think that I will take a slightly more direct route. I am sure to miss some lovely sites but it is also important that I make reasonable progress towards Scotland!
Popped In On My Publishers
On Day 2 I popped in to see the publishers of my book The British Book of Spells and Charms. Troy Books are located not far from this Lands End sign so I couldn’t help but get a quick pic of me heading along the trail.
Graham Gets Poetic
I am lying in my tiny tent on the banks of the river Fal. The main flap is propped open so that I can feel the chill in the air and see the misty stillness that surrounds me. The owls are hooting and the river burbles and sometimes speaks in human-like voices. A fox barks and a pheasant cackles – I cannot explain how wonderful and special this is. It is such a shame that this experience can’t be shared .
I will soon fall asleep to the sounds of the flowing Fal, the woodland animals and birds and I thank them for letting me share their space.
Bad weather is forecast for tomorrow- let’s see what the morning brings.
Nite nite.
Wet and Wild
The night before last I fell asleep to the sound of the wild animals and the river but I was awakened by the howling gail and the lashing rain. The tent held up well but one of the pegs sprang out as the ground got soggy. I searched everywhere for it but it had vanished which was a shame as it was an expensive light weight titanium peg. I had no choice but to pack the tent away wet – I hate doing this but there was no alternative.
I carried on to the Creed church which was the first dry space I could find to sort out my maps and kit. This lovely, peaceful church was once looked after by the Reverand William Greggor who, in 1779, discovered titanium in the local stream and recognised it as a new element. I wonder if his ghost stole my tent peg? What ever happened to it I don’t feel that it is polluting the ground as there is already titanium present. What a strange coincidence.
The rain continued so I decided to try and find a B&B in St. Austell but to no avail. This being easter weekend the area is busy and many families have been camping, got washed out, and booked into the nearest hotel/B&B. In the spirit of a true pilgrim I pushed on and trusted that a solution would present itself. I picked a track that looked interesting on the map. It looked like there were several old mine buildings and barns so I was hoping for a lovely hay loft or any other sheltered place to spend the night: none showed up.
Just as I was giving up hope an old farm house appeared in front of me with a big YHA sign. Eden Project Youth Hostel. Hooray! I followed the sign to reception, opened the door and waited. I called out but no body was around – very strange…..
I phoned the Eden YHA and had an even stranger conversation: ‘You cant be in the reception or I would be looking at you!’ I walked outside and read the sign again whilst still on the phone. After a few moments we worked out the problem – I was in the old youth hostel but the signs were still in place. I was told that there were no rooms available at the new hostel but there was space for my tent. Well that would do I thought, but by the time I had walked down the road to the new hostel a room had become available. So all was well.
Youth Hostels have changed somewhat since I last used them. This one comprises several banks of shipping containers which have been covert erected to tiny cabins rather like those on a ferry. There is even a toilet that makes that loud sucking woosh when you flush it just like being on a boat! The prices have changed a bit too – £49 per night.
I could hear the storm lashing against my shipping container and felt glad that I was not in the tent.
A Stopoff Near Lovely Lanhydrock
Near Lanhydrock heading towards St Neots tomorrow
Last night I was snug and warm in Dickie our motorhome and I missed the wild weather overnight. Today I’ve walked a mere 6 miles to a secret location where the local National Trust warden has given Kerriann permission to park Dickie. Many thanks Matt, Ian, Rachel and all the NT team that have seen their way through the trust bureaucracy to help me on my walk, your help is much appreciated. Staying here gives me another chance to miss the tail end of storm Katie which is currently buffeting the van. It also gives me a chance to recover a little and rest my limbs.
Walking today with a small pack rather than my usual 14kg load was a breeze. I felt very tall and light without the gravitational pull on my shoulders that my body has adjusted to. It also makes me realise that walking from Lands End to John O’Groats with a back up team is a very different matter from hiking if carrying your home on your back.
But whilst traveling between pre-arranged hotels, hostels etc has some appeal some of the best experiences of my walk so far have been the wonderful places that I have spent a night under canvas.
I am beginning to realise that I am very dependant on the weather. Yes, I can survive a few nights in the tent in wet conditions but it is no fun. Erecting a wet tent in the rain and having nowhere to dry the day’s wet clothing is about as far from fun as you can get. Also hunting for a b & b in the pouring rain is not the best way to end a long day’s walk.
A must read book is No Destination by Satish Kumar. He is the Jain monk who walked around the world delivering peace tea to world leaders. He set out without any money and relied on humanity to provide for him yet he survived, prospered, and continued to encourage peace pilgrimage. When I am feeling gloomy I must remember to simply have faith and trust that all will be well and that I will be looked after.
A Night in Dickie
The weather forecast for today was as bad as it could get but it didn’t bother me as I had arranged to meet Kerriann, Hugo (the small dog), in Dickie the motorhome at the Eden Valley camp site near St Austell. Very friendly site I must say.
As it turned out the weather wasn’t too bad, with some lovely sunshine between one or two downpours. I only walked about 8 miles today but that’s fine, I am not in a rush and will have days when I walk 20 miles or more. Currently I think I am averaging around 14 miles a day; bang on my ( loose) target.
Kerriann has brought me some clean clothes and more maps – I must say how satisfying it is to see the pile of ‘walked maps’ but it is a little alarming to see the huge ‘to be walked’ pile.
Today my walking route, The Mary/Michael Pilgrim way coincided in part with the coast to coast Saints Way which I walked some years ago.
What I do to tomorrow rather depends on the weather – I don’t want to be wild camping in the pouring rain………
The Mary/Michael Pilgrim Way is a relatively new long distance route from West Cornwall to Norfolk. The walk roughly follows the earth energy lines identified by Paul Broadhurst and Hamish Miller. The discovery of the currents is described in their excellent and enlightening book The Sun and the Serpent. I read this book many years ago and am delighted to be following the currents on the first part of my long walk. I must also acknowledge the huge amount of work put in to establishing this non-religious pilgrim trail. Well done everyone involved!
Those that haven’t read the book should do so its a classic.
A Cheesey Finale to a Soggy Day
It was great to have Kerriann and Hugo walk with me for a mile or so this morning. The sun came out for a while – then the wind, hale and rain. But my kit worked well and kept me dry. Leaving my Tilley hat on under the hood of my Rab jacket was a particularly successful experiment. My head stayed warm and dry and the rim of the Tilley kept the rain off my glasses.
I had planned to walk to St Neots today but found that I was there by lunchtime so had a lovely meal in the London Inn and then pressed on to Minions. I tried the footpaths on several occasions today but they were so muddy they were pretty much impossible to walk down, so I ended up walking on the minor roads. This is a pleasure in this part if Cornwall as there are so few cars. I was walking one of these lanes this morning and got the distinct feeling that I was walking with someone; a man, I think, who was in step with me and was between me and the right hand hedge. I guess, that the hypnotic effect of road walking had entranced me….
When I got to Minions I had a quick wander around the wonderful Hurlers stone circles then went and sat in the old engine house that is now an information centre. It was warm and rather pleasant inside so I had a bite to eat and phoned around to see if I could find local lodgings as the forecast was for more rain. No joy – all the B&Bs were fully booked.
OK I thought I will bed down in the engine room – and be gone before anyone arrives in the morning. That plan didn’t work either, a local woman came to lock up and asked me to leave. We got talking and I discovered she used to be a health worker in Boscastle. She told me about The Cheesewring Farm which I called and hooray! They had a room. The lady from the engine house walked with me until she was sure that I was on the correct path and instructed me to follow it past the Cheesewring quarry and continue until I came to a farm with a wind turbine.
I am now installed in this wonderful B&B enjoying my own little cottage and what’s more the landlady has thrown in a free evening meal – maybe I looked famished! This is a great location – if you want first class accommodation at an affordable price near the stone circles, the Cheesewring, and all the other wonders of Bodmin moor this is the place.
I just checked on the GPS and it tells me that I have walked a total of 101.5 miles.
So around 14.5 miles a day – almost exactly what I had anticipated.
Meeting Fluffy in Dickie
Just as a huge downpour of hailstones burst forth Mr Fluffy appeared wearing his cheerful red jacket and a massive smile. He was also wearing trousers in case you were wondering. I’d just pulled into the Eden Valley Holiday Park after my first harrowing solo drive of Dickie. I worked out a way to strap Hugo the dog in so he couldn’t burst forth onto my lap while I was mid gear-change and after the initial shaking and grumpiness he settled down on his seat while my blood pressure resumed its trip skyward.
I had managed the drive at a reasonable average speed of 25 miles per hour, much to the enjoyment of the dozens of cars following behind, and had arrived at the Holiday Park minutes before Mr Fluffy appeared. Great timing.
He’s looking remarkably fit and healthy for a man who will not see the more youthful side of 60 again. Perhaps it’s due to the lack of nagging from me the lack of ‘rolling in poo’ of Hugo that’s contributing to his annoyingly relaxed demeanour.
Two nights in Dickie and it was time to drive home. Of course it was pouring so my speed meant that I was virtually driving backwards at times. A 20-point-turn later and a nervous reverse and I was parked up outside our house. The stress of driving alone with a small dog meant the exhaustion took over and I was in bed by 7:30 PM – unheard of. Not even a drink! I’m sure I’ll get used to it….eventually.
I am yet to tackle the emptying of the toilet. Can’t wait.
Musings on the Moor
Walking around The Hurlers and other ancient stone circles one can always feel a connection with the past but in Minions and around Stows Hill the very ground is buzzing with history and magic. I recall Paul Broadhurst telling me how important he thought Stows Hill was; well I agree with him. The Hurlers, and other standings stones, are placed where they are because of Stows Hill; ancient man revered this place and so do I.
When I got up this morning I wondered if it was sensible to climb up to see the Cheesewring and walk across the moors to Sharp Tor, the forecast was bad and I anticipated a lot of mud. Well I decided to go for it and had one of the most wonderful mornings of my walk. It was a slog scrambling up Stows Hill with a large rucksack on my back but it was amazing to be alone with the fantastic natural stone structures and the atmosphere they exude. Sometimes it’s a blessing to be with friends but other times it can be a blessing to be on your own in special places like this.
Walking across to Sharp Tor I got caught in an intense downpour of hail but it didn’t cause a problem other than creating more mud for the rest of today’s walk. This part of the moor is modified by man, he has lived and worked here for thousands of years. It’s only recently that nature has reclaimed it. I wonder if man chose to live here because of the atmosphere and natural beauty or if man has tweaked and enhanced the atmosphere?
Climbing over a style I managed to catch my waterproof leggings on some barbed wire and they now have a large tear. What was the barbed wire doing on the style? Ask the inconsiderate farmer who put it there!
Am bedded down early in my tent as the forecast says that its going to be cold tonight – better be in my sleeping bag early to keep warm.
A Night on Gibbet Hill
Today’s walking was surprisingly hard. The day started very cold; there was frost on the tent and my hands got very cold packing everything away. But the sun shone all day. This was perfect walking weather but it was the legacy of the recent rain that was the problem – mud and lots of it, trees down blocking paths, and broken styles. In the end I gave up on the footpaths that all resembled streams of mud and resorted to walking the tracks and minor roads.
At last I started making progress. I woke up to the sound of wood peckers and pheasants but it was the sound of new born lambs that accompanied me most of the day.
The high point of the day, metaphorically and literally, was the rather beautiful Brent Tor; another of the ancient sites that the early Christians plonked a church on top of. The earlier ramparts are still visible and impressive.
I have just been told by a friendly local that I am camped on Gibbet Hill. Apparently there was a local tribe of red-headed sheep rustlers known as the Gubinse’s – the last of this tribe met his demise on the contraption!
It should be an interesting night. It’s now 8 o’clock and getting too cold to type, time for a small whisky and an early night.
The Route So Far
The purple line is the GPS log till about Bugle. The blue line is roughly what Graham’s walked from Bugle to Brent Tor last night. The green line is the planned route – you can see divergence from planned route in the first section of the map.
Welcome to Dartmoor
I spoke to Graham this morning and it sounds like it was a freezing night. He was snug in his sleeping bag but waking up this morning it felt like around -2 degrees. He packed up and headed out without brushing either his hair or teeth so as to get his circulation going. He has since attended his coiffe and his dental hygiene, you’ll be pleased to know.
The ice on his tent has melted but a soggy tent is not great fun so he may try to check into a pub or B & B tonight. He’s enjoying everyone’s comments and support so keep them coming.
A Difficult Day on Dartmoor
Another very hard day waking. The moors are tough, they are out to get you; bogs, unmarked routes, stones and boulders , wind and rain and sheer inclines. So why walk on the moors? Simply because they are amazing.
I think it is because I am slightly on edge when walking alone on Dartmoor; the very real fear of getting lost or tripping and hurting myself adds another dimension to the amazing views. So does the absence of others and the knowledge that few people ever venture that far from their cars.
Walking some 15 miles over the moors today is no mean feat; over Kitty Tor at 584 meters, down the very steep valley to the West Okement River, then along its boggy valley and up the steep climb to Yes Tor with all of its false horizons. Just when you think you are nearly at the summit a new higher one appears. Yes Tor is 619 meters high. The wind was blowing on the summit and there was rain in the air.
I decided to see if Okehampton YHA had a free bed and called from Yes Tor thinking it might be auspicious: ‘yes’ they said. Next time I will try calling my bank and asking for a thousand pounds!
Up on the higher moors I found myself checking and rechecking my bearings, count a hundred steps and check again – I am tired and could easily make a mistake, 1,2,3…….100 check again.
The Dartmoor rescue team are busy enough without silly old codgers like me wandering the moors with huge back packs and getting lost…….98,99, 100, check again. Luckily I made to Okehampton without incident.
This Youth hostel is more traditional than the one near the Eden Project. No shipping containers. I hope I don’t snore as I’m in a 4 man dorm.
Oops Where Are My Maps?
It was lovely to see Kerriann and Hugo at lunchtime. They came to top up my supplies of maps and clean clothing – the only problem was that Kerriann forgot the batch of maps that I will need in the next day or so. Never mind. She will meet me tomorrow instead.
I can now say for the first time that I feel as if I am walking away from home. Until the last day or so I have been getting closer to Boscastle – now the distances from home are growing by the day.
I am not sure that camping here tonight was a good idea. Apparently it will rain tonight. I am in a gorgeous spot called Shirley Pool on Dartmoor and my tent is lovely and dry after a night in the drying rood at Okehampton YHA where I stayed last night.
Lets see what the night brings…..
A Sunday Song Line
It was nice to walk some of the Two Moors Way today – familiar stretches of paths and fond memories. I trekked this route with my friend Anthony last summer and it is one of my favourite walks. We did have some rainy nights but the weather was generally much better than it is now.
It rained last night so I have had to pack away a wet tent so I am looking to find a hostel for tonight. Currently I am in The Chagford Inn in Chagford, waiting for Kerriann who is delivering the maps that she forgot yesterday!
Last night, camped besides the beautiful Shirley pool, I again noticed the ‘human’ voices in the sound of the running water – words, calls and songs. Australian aboriginals talk of the ‘Song Lines’ they follow when they are on walkabout. Maybe one can literally hear the earth singing in special places like Shirley Pool?
The thorn tree above was grown from a cutting of the Glastonbury thorn . It’s in the lovely church yard of St Mary’s in Throwleigh.
A Stroll by the Teign
Walking alongside the river Teign this afternoon in the mizzle, I remembered setting up a wild camp site with Anthony on this spot. We asked a local it would be OK to camp there and he told us that the owner of the field was abroad but that she would say yes if she were here – that was good enough for us! It was after we’d set up that we noticed the strange sculpture installed on the island -like a large stone boulder that had been split in two to reveal a brain like inner.
There are several of these ‘egg’ stones in the area; they are the work of local sculptor Peter Randall-Page. I also remembered the long climb up to the pub in Drewsteignton where I’m staying in their walker’s bunkhouse. They also do ‘posh’ B&B rooms but I’m happier in a bunkhouse, especially as I’m probably rather smelly : I am sure Kerriann who edits this will confirm this. (He’s not that bad really KG)
I’ve not covered much distance in the last couple of days but have had a couple of lovely long lunch breaks with Kerriann and Hugo. Kerriann did bring the correct maps the second time so I’m planning ahead over a pint tonight.
This is a proper pub, good real ales, good service, no bull shit, interesting customers and a bunk house for £15 – what more could you want? The Drew Arms in Drewsteignton.
Witch Museum Fans Everywhere
Sitting in the pub last night I planned today’s route and ear-wigged the conversation on the table next to me. Should they have a Eurovision evening in the pub? Anyone want cheap tickets to the Labour party conference? How wonderful the Museum of Witchcraft was! Yes, really, the landlord was planning a visit today. I am gobsmacked at how often this happens to me – the museum is talked about all around the world.
I announced my interest in the said museum and everybody had nothing but praise for it – I was very proud and pleased. I hope you enjoyed your visit to the museum Gary as much as I enjoyed your pub.
Some miles down the road from Drewsteignton I got chatting to a couple of bee-keepers, it turned out they knew and loved Boscastle too. The chap was telling me how awkward he felt when he was first given his bee hives; how he had to stand in front of each hive and tell the bees that he was their new owner and that he would look after them. I talk about this tradition in my book (The British Book of Spells and Charms); how you must inform bees of any changes in the affairs of their keepers and their families.
Kipling wrote:
Marriage, birth or buryin’,
News across the seas,
All you’re sad or merry in,
You must tell the Bees.
Tell ’em coming in an’ out,
Where the Fanners fan,
‘Cause the Bees are just about
As curious as a man!
I arrived in Crediton thinking it would be easy enough to get a B&B as it has been raining and drizzling all day but no rooms were available. The latest forecast said that there would be one more downpour at around 6 pm then it would be a dry night. So I walked on looking for a good camping spot. Eventually I spotted some bright green grass up a track off the path, as I turned a deer ran out in front of me; ‘a sign’, I thought. I set up camp after the huge storm cloud had passed over and watched a beautiful sunset.
I laid still in my sleeping bag until the birds stopped their alarm calls and resumed their normal song – I have been accepted into their environment….
From Interview with a Dutchman to a Horse-drawn Canal Boat
The tent stayed dry all night. It was warm enough to leave the outer flap open a little so as to improve the ventilation enough to stop any condensation. The forecast was good for today so I got dressed and prepared in a very pleasant mood, mooching around, enjoying the scenery, then, literally out of the blue, down came the rain and soaked the tent. Never trust a weather forecast!
So yet again I am walking with a wet tent in my pack.
I walked away from the wonderful but moody and menacing moors and into the sheep strewn rolling hills of North Devon. The red mud in this area clings to your feet and creates a suction that feels like you’re wearing lead-weighted diving boots; it sucks your energy and coats every item of clothing you are wearing with a gloopy red muck.
I walked hard today as I had an interview arranged with Wilmar Taal, a Dutch journalist interested in some aspects of The Museum of Witchcraft. It was nice to meet up with him, his wife, and the girls from the excellent Troy books who drove him out to meet me.
The Exe Valley Way must be a treat when the path is dry but it was so wet that it was almost impassable and difficult to hurry.
I am always being asked ‘when will you be at ……..?’ It is so difficult to predict how long it will take to get somewhere unless you know the path. Obviously you can look at the map distance and contours but they won’t tell you about the footpath diversion, the fallen tree or the energy-eating mud.
Have camped next to the Grand Western Canal. The forecast is for a wet night so with any luck it will stay dry!
Along the Great Western Canal
The night before last the rain held off and I slept like a log. As I was preparing to get up, the sky opened again and the tent got soaked. The is becoming a recurring problem. Luckily, the evening before was dry and windy so I erected the tent as soon as I found a reasonable spot and let the wind whistle through it. By bedtime (about 7.30 pm) it was dry enough to put the inflatable mattress and sleeping bag in.
The wild camping was OK but not up to my usual standards. I was on the edge of a field next to a canal but did not have the views – maybe I’m getting too fussy.
I’ve covered more miles today – just over 16.2. I was speaking to my friend Andy on the phone yesterday and we discussed my average daily mileage. Andy pointed out that as soon as I got on a way-marked, flat trail my average would shoot up. Well today I was following the Grand Western Canal towpath and The West Dean Way over flat and mostly dry terrain. Andy was right and I reached Taunton a day earlier than expected.
In the morning I found myself getting agitated by the noise of the busy road and it got me thinking that the sleepy canal was once a very high-tech transport system that now becomes a means of recreation. In a hundred years or two I wonder if our road system will have returned to nature and if people will be able to dowse the magnetic changes imposed on the bedrock by the thousands of cars and trucks that have belted up and down it? And I wonder how people will get themselves from A to B?
When I see an old windmill in the countryside I have similar thoughts – did people object to having a high tech monstrosity built in their back yard? Will future generations view an old wind turbine as quaint?
Tonight I am spending the night in a friend’s house in Taunton. The tent is drying, the sleeping bag is airing and my clothes have been washed. Oh and I have a bed to sleep in – Luxury!
Will I Meet Andrew on the Mump…..?
I’ve just pitched my tent inside the ruined church at Burrow Mump. This does, at first glance, sound like an irresponsible thing to do but it is not as bad as it seems. There is plenty of evidence that sheep graze the inside of the roofless nave and the church was always this way – it was never finished, it never did have a roof. I will of course do no damage and take away other people’s rubbish as well as my own.
I also checked with some locals and they all encouraged my overnight stay. The first person even helped me put my tent up as it was rather windy and the second one, April, a local pagan, told me about some of her experiences with the Mump. At the end of the day (and it was the end of the day) I simply couldn’t resist taking this opportunity to sleep in/on such a special place on the Michael line. April said that once, while walking with friends, she looked up at the Mump and saw flames shooting out of the windows and roof. They all watched this whilst walking and assumed that some kids had lit a big bonfire in the church. On inspection later there was no evidence of any fire at all.
We talked about the incredible ‘energy’ or atmosphere that emanates from the Mump and its long history as a place of worship. April also told me of visions of white robed figures and of a friendly spirit called Andrew that hangs out here. She thinks that he would find me amusing, I do hope he says hello.
I did not cover as much distance today, mainly because I spent quite a lot of time mooching around churches. People on the levels seem very easy to talk to. I have had an interesting conversation with a man repairing a church organ; he was a keen walker. Another chap informed me that the path I was on led to the former house of the richest man in Somerset, when he died he left £50,000 to his cook : ‘that got ’em talking’, he said. I also met a group of church ‘recorders’ (nerds) that record and document every last detail of each church, there were about half a dozen of them. One even offered me a cup of lukewarm coffee from her flask; I politely declined.
I must thank the Westmancott family for looking after me so well last night; bath, food, laundry, bed, drying my damp tent and sleeping bag – and even a beer- what more could a tired walker want.
Time to wait for Andrew………
Should be Glastonbury Tonight
I make it well over 200 miles so far (about 1/6th of the way) and he’s looking good for Glastonbury on Saturday by my reckoning! About 35 miles from the start of Thursday. (Malcolm Baker – map master)
Tilley Appeal
Graham is devastated that he has lost his Tilley hat!
If anyone is around the area between Barrow Mump and Othery in Somerset please look out for it. It has his phone number and his card with his email and blog address in it. He thinks it may have been knocked off when he was climbing a stile but is not sure. He’s walked a couple of hours already today so is not keen to retrace his steps.
Retracing Old Steps to Glastonbury
Well, I didn’t meet Andrew the ghost last night but did hear the sound of children laughing and playing. This is rather strange as it was far too late for it to have been carried from a school or playground. I have experienced this phenomena before at Madron Well in Cornwall – all very strange.
I’m using an old map of the Somerset Levels and alongside my highlighted route (in orange) is a blue line that was the track I walked in 1996 when I walked from Hampshire to Cornwall to purchase The Museum of Witchcraft. Strangely I was walking the Mary/Michael Pilgrim Way before it was created.
After the 1996 walk I remember thinking ‘I hate the Somerset levels’. This time around they confuse me. The people I have met are all lovely, the fisherman netting baby eels (elvers) and the farmer who caught me trespassing on his track were charming. The women cleaning the churches, and passers-by were all fine but I still feel uncomfortable here. Maybe it is the lack of topographical features or the fact that it is all so low; should we be walking around on ground that is below or close to sea level?
I am missing my lovely Tilley hat and wonder if I left it on a fence post. I found myself on the wrong side of a drain and had to walk a mile or so to find a bridge to rectify the situation; getting hot and bothered I stopped to remove my coat. It’s easy to knock my hat off when removing the backpack so I think, being next to a drain, I placed the hat somewhere safe during the operation and suspect that, being flustered, I forgot to pick it up.
I’ve booked in to The George and Pilgrim pub in Glastonbury tonight as it’s going to rain and I’ve had a chance meeting with some friends – a very pleasant end to a strange day’s walking.
Covered 18.9 miles today.
Up and Down All the Way to Wells
It’s quite uncanny. Every time I’m supposed to meet Graham anywhere we arrive at exactly the same time. Yet again a fluffy disheveled man appeared around the corner just as I returned to Dickie fresh from checking in at Wells Touring Park.
Looking a tad thinner than when he set off three weeks and 244 miles ago, his smile was just as broad as when he’d left me on the cliffs at lands End. His last couple of days on the levels included a rather boozy night at The George and Pilgrim in Glastonbury book-ended by walks along muddy tracks and up and down the Tor.
After an equally arduous drive in Dickie we were treated to a fabulous meal at Goodfellows in Wells by Graham’s mother Betty. If you’re into seafood this is a great restaurant.
He set off again today on his way towards Bristol via the very witchy Wookey Hole. It looks like he’ll be wildcamping again tonight as he when he tried to book a bunk house at a farm near Cheddar he was informed it would be £70 a night….for a bunk……he’d be bankrupt if he paid that every night on his way to Scotland so tenting it is. Here are a few pics from his last 2 days.
Kerriann
Check, Check, Check…
It was a lovely meal out on Saturday night but when we arrived back in the van I was exhausted. I’ve become used to being in bed in my tent at around sunset or sooner if like tonight it is raining.
I am often fast asleep by 9PM.
This morning I felt flustered, so much to do: check I have all the maps for the next leg, check I have all the ointments, creams and medications, top up the food supplies, top up the whisky flask, check I have enough clean underwear, charge the Iphone, Ipad and battery pack, get batteries for the GPS, send the data files to Malcolm the map master so that he can update the online maps, have shower, have breakfast……….it was all too much!
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Ebbor Gorge was lovely this morning and the blue bells were putting on a lovely display, if you are very, very quiet you can hear them ringing. (Not really but it’s a nice thought).
Around Priddy I noticed that my old map was covered with pencil lines. These were from about 30 years ago when I was looking for alignments of ancient sites. The area is rich with burial mounds and earthworks; it’s a dowser’s paradise. I went to Priddy years ago during the gypsy horse fair and remember listening to an old boy who was leaning on a hurdle, watching the sheep auction and singing to himself.
‘Step it out Mary my fine daughter,
step it out Mary if you can
Step it out Mary my fine daughter
Show your legs to the country man’
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The rain has held off till about 6 pm tonight – I could feel it in the air so as soon as I found a suitable pitch, I put the tent up. Just it the nick of time – as I lie writing this it is pouring. There is, however, something satisfying about being snug in a tent when the weather is bad.
I just need the rain to stop in the night and the wind to dry the tent before morning.
Nite nite.
Notes from Malcolm the Map Master
Flat length 243.76 miles.
Height ascended – 8916.97m.
Height descended – 8944.37m.
Everest is 8848 m. Congratulations, that’s your first one!
Or, at 1345m, that’s 6.6 Ben Nevises or, at estimated 1.9m, 4693 Ben Hurs!
Rainy Walk to Bristol…Uggh
Am taking it easy this afternoon as it has been pouring down all morning. I slept well last night listening to the pittapatta of rain on my tent and awoke early to the sound of ( you guessed it) the pittapatta of rain on my tent.
Last night I spoke to Kerriann on the phone and got her to book me a bed in Bristol YHA. I had a horrible morning walking; it was very wet and muddy and I was truly shocked by the amount of fly tipping on the back lanes and tracks as I approached Bristol. The lanes were disgusting; old fridges and washing machines, plastic waste bags and building debris. Somerset you should be ashamed!
Walking in the suburbs of Bristol was also a culture shock; cars, trucks and buses whizzing past so close. I’ve been spoiled by walking in the quiet countryside for three weeks.
My tent is strung out over the tumble dryers in the drying room – I guess there is no need for tent drying faculties in a modern urban youth hostel. This is a busy place but I suspect I’m the only guest who’s walked here! I can remember when you could only stay at a Youth Hostel if you walked or cycled; strictly no cars or public transport back then! Still, I’m enjoying the luxury of a hot shower, a comfy seat and somewhere to sort out my route for tomorrow.
I bought most of my walking kit from the Cotswold Outdoors because their staff actually use the kit; they know what they’re talking about and give good advice. I called in to see them today as I had a split in one of my gaiters and a tear in my waterproof leggings. Obviously they’ve been through the mill over the past three weeks, in fact they have done more miles in three weeks than most world do in a year. The guys at Cotswold were as good as ever and replaced my leggings and gaiters with no charge. I did in fact upgrade the gaiters to Rab ones as I have been so pleased with my Rab coat. So a big round of applause to Cotswold Outdoors for being such good sports!
I also took the opportunity to get my hair cut. I don’t normally mind my hair and beard getting a bit long but it is difficult to keep them clean when camping. So I’ve had a good trim! What do you think?
A Bridge Into Wales
I like Bristol Youth Hostel but one of my room mates shut the window after I had gone to bed. The room was small, just big enough to accommodate the two sets of bunk beds, and it had a hot radiator under the window. Now, four people in a small room with a radiator create far too much heat to sleep comfortably. Also the chap above me snored; his snoring vibrated the bed and reverberated around the stifling room. He was the only person that got any sleep. Various prods, loud coughs, etc, would stop the noise for a few seconds then it would restart.
I have had this problem before when walking the Camino in Spain and it is difficult to resolve. Of course one initially feels angry with the snorer but he does not deliberately disturb his room mates, the action is subconscious. The other consideration is that I might also snore. I’ve been told that I do when I have had a drink or two. I now don’t drink at all when staying in a dormitory.
I was up bright and early and worked my way across Bristol. I was very pleasantly surprised at the lovely parklands and green spaces in amongst the suburbs of this busy city. Bristol is a lovely city nowadays with its waterside restaurants and walks, its theatres and art scene and it has some top museums.
It took several hours to walk the 12 miles or so to the Severn Bridge. I was crossing the old bridge but there is pedestrian access to the new ( M4) bridge. It’s a long two and a half mile walk to cross it which is surprisingly steep until halfway. Then it’s a bit of a slog to get through the suburbs of Chepstow into some suitable wild camping countryside. The result is a 20.7 mile walk today and according to my gps I have topped 287 miles so far. This means that I now have less than a thousand miles to go. Hooray!
Crossing into Wales also feels like an important threshold passed.
I met some interesting people today on the road. The blind lady that I helped to cross the road was designing a set of tarot cards that had texture so that you could feel the different cards.I think this could be popular with sighted people as well.
The second lovely person was an old gentleman on his rather tatty bicycle with no brakes. He had been beach-combing after the recent spring tides. We chatted about adventures and how kids today don’t have them…..’where are the children?….look along this beach and there aren’t any children…… they’re all in their rooms playing on computers…they don’t have adventures any more’. He went on to say that he had read a book by Hilloughby about walking from Lands End to John O Groats. He was absolutely delighted when I told him it was that book that inspired me to undertake this quest. He said I should talk to youngsters, ‘inspire them and get them away from those computers’. The third person l met was a woman doing a long distance pilgrimage to Vannes in Brittany. It was good to meet another long distance walker – she was the first I have met on this trip. She was backpacking with a tent but only using ‘proper’ campsites. Good on her, I wish her well.
I’m camping in the woods above Chepstow and can feel the temperature dropping as the sun sets. Time to get snug.
Wye Oh Wye
Whilst I did not expect the Wye Valley Walk to be a flat track along the river banks I’d not expected it to climb up and down like the Cornish coast path. That said, it must rate as one of the most scenic and varied paths in the country. At times it was a little scary with 100 foot drops down to the river from a narrow, muddy track.
I
I stopped at Tintern Abbey for a cup of tea and a baked potato. The abbey is an impressive ruin but today it was not calling me. It did not feel special or sacred, just pretty.
After a coldish night, today got bloody hot and I was walking in shirt sleeves for most of the day. Removing a jacket or putting one on is not a simple procedure when wearing a heavy rucksack. Ideally you want to find a wall, table or bench to rest your pack on whilst removing the straps, then you have to remove the map wallet that hangs around your shoulder and the gps from around your neck. With that all done you have to remove the waterproof cover from the rucksack, open it up and find the appropriate jacket. After donning the jacket you have to reinstall the rucksack, map pocket and gps by which time the change of weather that initiated the procedure has usually passed.
I have reached Monmouth tonight and booked into a commercial campsite so that I can have a shower and wash some socks.
Several people have told me the the Wye Valley Walk is a great walk – now I can see wye.
Mundane and Musings
An exceptionally beautiful walk this morning after a rainy but uneventful night in my first ‘proper’ campsite. I was hoping that the site might have a washing machine and drier but no such luck, so I washed my socks and underwear whilst having a shower and hung them from the back of my rucksack.
Today I walked through some amazing scenery, along side the wide, windy, and wonderful Wye. I didn’t see a single person for the first 4 or 5 miles then, around Symonds Yat, it got busy with canoeists, walkers and tourists. I stopped for a pint of shandy and cheekily hung my tent out to dry on the pub’s railings.
At about 3.30 I came to the Wye Valley Youth hostel and made a spur of the moment decision to have a short day and stay here for the night. There was rain forecast but the sun is shining at the moment. It’s a lovely old vicarage overlooking the river.
I have had a shower, put on fresh clean clothes, washed my dirty clothes, and hung the tent, sleeping bag and washing in the drying room to air along with my boots. When the boots are dry I will give them a going over with water treatment/ cleaning gel.
It feel good to be organised and also to give my legs and feet a bit of a rest.
I notice that I’ve covered around 311 miles so far.
I’ve been wondering, is this journey simply a long walk or is it a pilgrimage. Pilgrimage is usually associated with a journey to a holy shrine or other sacred place and one certainly would not normally describe John O’Groats as holy or sacred. But to me it is more about the mental and physical barriers that have to be overcome to reach the destination. It’s been said many times before that it is the journey not the destination that defines a pilgrimage; having total faith that all will be well no matter what difficulties are thrown at you. It’s also about discovery; not only discovering new people and places but discovering new states of being, new ways of thinking and new ways of communicating with your gods and nature.
I have no particular desire to go to John O’Groats but I am passionate about following a hunch that I will become a better person by undertaking this quest. As I sit here now with aching feet and tired limbs I know that I’ve already been changed by the sounds of wild animals and birds when I wild camp, by the lovely, diverse and fascinating people I’ve met, and by the staggering beauty of this planet. Of course I have also been changed by the pain of the long uphill slog in the pouring rain and the sleepless nights and the aching of muscles that I didn’t know existed. I simply hope that all the changes are for the good.
I therefore conclude that, for me this is a pilgrimage rather that a just lengthy hike.
YHA Memories
Wye Valley YHA is a lovely old fashioned hostel, rather like those I remember from my youth. It’s an old rectory and comes complete with a church in its grounds. The location, overlooking the river, is to die for. When I was still in primary school my mother would let my brother and me cycle off to Youth Hostels on our own; this would be unthinkable nowadays. Of course back then there were no provided meals, you had to cook your own. You slept in large dormitories often with no heating. You also had to take your own sleeping bag liner and guests were expected to do ‘tasks’ like cleaning the floors as part of the deal. I rather liked the old format as it forced people to interact.
But I enjoyed my stay at this hostel and met some nice people; a cyclist, a metal detectorist, a birder, and a Duke of Edinburgh award scheme instructor. An unlikely group of people but one guaranteed to inspire interesting conversation. On my walk today I had brief chats with various people who were all very encouraging. One chap walked with me for half a mile or so. He was a very keen walker, I suspect ex-military, and he was saying that the boys from the regiment do the Wye walk in 3 days, ‘mind you’, he said, ‘they walk all night as well!’
Which brings me onto one of my gripes about guide books for long distance walks. Why do they assume that all people walking the routes are super athletes and set day walk distances of 17 to 22 miles? In my humble opinion, 10 to 14 miles a day is more than enough. It reminds me of a couple Anthony and I met when we were walking the Two Moors Way. We had set up camp at about 5 o’clock and were sitting by the fire having a mug of hot chocolate when this middle-aged couple came hobbling along the path. In conversation it turned out that they had pre-booked their accommodation based on the guide book recommendations of 20 plus miles a day – they were exhausted and still had 6 miles of hilly terrain to go.
So take my advice and ignore the expert advice, set lower targets and enjoy walking without pressure – the worst that can happen is that you will have more time to enjoy your surroundings.
Ross-on-Wye made a nice lunchtime stop today and this afternoon’s walk took me past some very affluent looking houses – there is money around here – posh country estates. Hereford and further tomorrow with any luck.
Thanks for all the comments – I really enjoy reading them. It can get a tad lonely spending all day and night alone so your messages are areal boost. Forgive me if I haven’t responded to all of them but it’s difficult operating the iPad in a freezing tent and I have to do it quickly to preserve battery life.
Obstacles
Encountered a couple of barriers along the way
A Snowy Start
It rained all night, the forecast was completely wrong. I have grown to expect that but I did not expect snow – yes when I opened my tent this morning it was a winter wonderland. It was also very cold. I lay in my warm sleeping bag for an hour or so but there was no sign of the snow stopping. The ‘code of conduct’ is to pitch late and leave early so I had to force myself out of bed and into the cold. I very quickly put on every thermal layer I had and started packing. The tent was sodden and frozen and my fingers also.
I walked hard for an hour or so and soon warmed up enough to remove my mitts and get a couple of breakfast bars from my pack.
The landscape is changing again, the old cider apple orchards are lovely especially with mistletoe draped over the trees.
I was soon in Hereford and managed to purchase some new ferrules for my walking poles. ‘Buy one packet and get another free’, the assistant said,’ but I only want one pair’,’ you have to have something free’, she said, ‘how about a miniature caribina with built-in compass?’ ‘ No, honestly, I only want one pair of ferules.’ This went on for some time and in the end I gave in and purchased 4 universal ferrules that fit any pole – needless to say they didn’t fit mine. I managed to bodge them on with some insulating tape!
Why have rubber ferules? The pole tips are very noisy without the rubber ends so I prefer them fitted. Why bother with poles at all? They have many advantages; they take a lot of pressure of my old, creaking knees especially going up or down hills. They are also useful tools for holding down brambles and electric fences and they help balance when fording rivers or crossing tricky terrain and finally they are good for testing the depth of mud and water.
They do take a bit of getting used to – when you first start using poles it’s easy to trip over them but it is worth persisting. The poles I’m using I’ve borrowed from Kerriann; they are top quality poles from Black Diamond and I am very pleased with them. I may have to buy Kerriann a new pair at the end of the walk – I don’t think I want to give these back!
Sadly I have not had any news regarding my Tilley hat. I’ve asked Kerriann if she will speak to Tilley to sort out a replacement.
The sun came out this afternoon so after a look around Hereford and a nice lunch I stopped next to a river gauging station that had a nice fence around it. I unpacked my soaking tent and hung it on the fencing for an hour and it dried out nicely.
I pitched at about 6 pm to catch the last of the afternoon sun, my nomadic home is dry and aired, and I’m enjoying beautiful views over the black mountains.
The Mapmaster Chronicles
I’ve done a couple more maps based on Graham’s data showing where and how he spent each night. I think the icons are pretty obvious: tent – camping, house = hotel, YHA or friends, motorhome = motorhome!
The stats up to 10th April are:
Camping 11/21 = 52.4%
Hotels, hostels, friends 7/21 = 33.33333333333333333333%
Motorhome 3/21 = 14.3%
Malcolm the Map Master
Bye to the Wye
A lovely day’s walking; it was bloody cold to start but once the sun was high enough the layers started coming off. I did around 10 miles before lunch at The Red Lion in Bredwardine. What a smashing pub, friendly landlord, good banter with the locals and a big Sunday roast followed by apple crumble and custard – what more could a walker want?
The land lord was telling me that very few people walk the Wye Valley Way – that’s such a shame. I rate it as one of the best walks in the country. I suspect that the guide book and its ridiculously ambitious distances for a day’s walk will have put a lot of people off or caused them to drop from exhaustion before getting this far up.
There were some serious climbs this afternoon and they are still knackering me. I had hoped that i would have built up some muscles by now but that does not seem to have happened. I’m still aching all over. It was also very muddy in places. Mud and steep up or down are a bad and potentially dangerous combination. I would look for skid-marks in the mud from earlier traffic to warn me of slippery spots but still ended up on my backside a few times.
With any luck today’s sun and wind will dry things out. Tomorrow I should join Offa’s Dyke which is notorious for lots of mud and too many styles……..fingers crossed.
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I was planning to meet Kerriann at Hay on Wye but am running ahead of schedule. Lovely as Hay is, I have no reason to go there as Kerriann is being pampered in Deal. So I’m saving a few miles by cutting across to Offa’s Dyke on the Herefordshire Trail. I’m camped up in some woods and listening to the beautiful bird song as the sun sets.
Cider Apples Everywhere
Old Apple tree we wassail thee
And hoping thou will bear
Hat fulls, Cap fulls
Three bushel bag fulls
And a little heap under the stair
On to Offa’s Dyke
This morning I said farewell to the River Wye. It had become a friend and accompanied me for the last week or so and a lot of miles. I joined the Hereford trail and cut across to The Offa’s Dyke Path. Many, many years ago I planned to walk this path over The Christmas holidays but the man in the walking boot shop warned against it; ‘Offa’s Dyke is too dangerous in Winter’, he said ‘ and anyhow it has too many styles and is a mud bath’. This rather put me off so I walked the North Cornwall coastal path instead.
I recall at one point the path was closed because of a land slide – I ignored the signs and tried to negotiate the scree slope that was once the path. I frightened myself witless. It is amusing to think that years later I would be part of the excellent Boscastle Coastguard team and would be helping to rescue stupid walkers like me.
Anyhow, at last, some twenty five years on, I am walking the Offa’s Dyke Walk and very nice it is too. Clearly it is quite hilly but, touch wood, it has not been too muddy and there hasn’t been an unacceptable number of styles.
This morning I had a small slip in the mud, my right foot slid but it twisted my left foot. This was quite painful so I slowed down and let the poles take more weight. I came to a pub that had a sign on the door saying that it was outside its normal opening hours but ring the door bell and they might be able to open. The landlord did open for me and I enjoyed a couple of pints of bitter shandy and a baked potato. I also thought about my throbbing left foot. What would nurse Godwin (Kerriann) tell me to do? I could hear her saying take some anti-inflammatory tablets and take it easy. I took two nurofen and continued the walk slowly. Soon the foot felt much better.
Offa’s Dyke is obviously a popular walk. I met several other walkers today including a couple that have, in the past, walked from Lands End to John O’Groats. They were telling me that their favourite walk was The Pennine Way. I have avoided that walk as I have heard so many bad reports about it being very difficult and very crowded. They did look extremely fit so maybe the difficulty didn’t worry them.
This will be my third consecutive night wild camping – let’s hope this weather holds.
Boundaries and Breakfast
Walking along Offa’s Dyke has got me thinking about boundaries. It seems that Offa built this bloody great long dyke just to mark the boundary- to show people what was his. It’s not a defensive structure; it would be impossible to make one this long. What a lot of effort simply to mark a boundary.
I’ve been drifting in and out of Wales for a week or more now and to be honest everything is the same; the trees, the sheep, the weather, the people, the churches, birds. The difference is simply a line drawn by man on a map or, in Offa’s case, a big ditch and mound. Yet boundaries cause so many problems, wars and disputes. When I wild camp, like now, in an empty patch of land it seems madness that I am acting illegally; somebody owns this plot and could, technically, turf me off it because of a line on a map.
I’ve just had a visitor, a nice local chap who has invited me in to his cottage for a cup of tea in the morning – that’s nice.
Mick and Gayle overtook me today; they’re the couple who have walked LEJOG before. In looking at their blog I notice that they’ve also walked from the South Eastern corner of Britain to the North Western corner of Scotland; now that is impressive! Take a look at their blog http://gayleybird.blogspot.co.uk
I had a lovely pub lunch in Knighton and then tackled a massive climb to the ridge – the sun was shining and it was hot. When I eventually got to the top, I stripped a few layers off and laid out in the sun and snoozed for an hour. It was lovely.
I have had a request (Anthony) for a culinary edition of the blog but every day has been different. So best I just use today as an example:
Breakfast – I have run out of porridge so had dehydrated noodles instead (can’t remember the flavour but they all taste the same). The surplus water made a cup of tea.
Lunch in a pub- leg of lamb with rosemary, mint and seasonal vegetables followed by a sponge pudding with custard. Wash that lot down with two pints of bitter shandy.
Filled up my two 750ml water containers.
Afternoon snack – Mars bar.
2nd afternoon snack – bag of nuts and raisins.
Evening – large mug of tea. Dehydrated mushroom soup.
Any nutritionists out there? Is this a good diet? Probably not – but I reckon you can eat what you want on a walk like this.
Am camped close to another trig point tonight. My friend Arthur sent me this link to a lovely article on trig points – l love the painted ones .
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-36036561
The Shropshire Rollercoaster
Today’s section of Offa’s Dyke was difficult but beautiful with stunning views. This section of the route is known as the Shropshire Rollercoaster. Take a look at the contours on the map and you’ll see how steep the climbs are – the closer the contour lines the steeper the hill. I take them very, very slowly, especially on a sunny day like today. I also give myself a breather every 100 steps. One advantage of taking lots of breaks is that I get to notice the wildlife and especially the kites and buzzards that seemed to circle over me like vultures over a dying animal. Maybe I looked worse than I felt.
I met a few walkers that were suffering today, one had set daily targets of 17 miles plus and was, I think, regretting it. Having hauled myself up and down the hills I was looking forward to a pint of shandy or two at the Blue Bell pub but no such luck – it doesn’t open at lunchtimes. I sat down outside the pub and looked at my maps – with no pub lunch I would need provisions. A lovely chap pulled up in his van and rearranged things on his roof rack then wandered over and started telling me about the area. He advised me to go into Montgomery which has pubs (open ones), shops etc. He also advised that I should follow the Shropshire Union Canal after Welshpool – an easier and more interesting route he said. Thank you nice man.
I’ve booked into an lovely B & B called Llwyn House in Montgomery. I’ve had a soak in a Radox bath and my washing is done and drying. Linda who runs this establishment didn’t even seem to notice how smelly I must be after several days of wild camping with no water.
When Offa built his dyke in the 8th century he managed to avoid almost all the pubs and shops – bloody silly of him if you ask me!
I recall that the ancient track, The Ridgeway, had similar problems. One has to drop down into the villages to find water, shops and pubs then have the steep climb back up to the path.
I had the bright idea of photographing all the styles today to show you how many there are and how beautiful some of them are. By 10 o’clock in the morning I realised that there are far too many to make this practical. So here are some styles in the sun before 10. I particularly like the triple decker with zigzag steps – which one do you prefer? Do you think I am becoming a style nerd?
It was also a rare surprise to find a water tap on the path.
Maybe tomorrow I will do the gates of Offa’s Dyke before 10 am. What do you think? Feel free to suggest themes for these blogs.
I could have done with my hat today in the sunshine – my face is looking rather weathered.
Malcolm the Mapmaster’s Latest Figures
Update on Graham’s nocturnal adventures…
11 April Bristol YHA. As it is pouring down!
12 April In lovely old woods above Chepstow.
13 April Camp site in Monmouth
14 April YHA Wye Valley. A lovely youth hostel – old rectory with its own church!
15 April Capler camp. Wild camping in old hill fort. Tucked into a corner to be discrete. No facilities.
16 April Wild camping adjacent to trig point – side of field – elevated position lovely views. No facilities
17 April Wild camping on top of a wooded hill on the Herefordshire Trail. Nice spot – plenty of room and flat.
18 April Wild camping besides the Offa’s Dyke Path which is in fact a farm track here. OK for one tent. No facilities.
I’d worry about the lack of facilities. Next time Kerriann meets up with Graham she’ll be able to smell him before she sees him…..Actually these comments have a serious purpose – Graham’s logging his overnight stays with the Backpackers Club to help others in future. He’s doing fantastically well…..
Wonderful Wales
A month’s walking, some 415 miles; a lot of nights under canvas and I’m still going strong, well strongish.
I thought that, by now, I would be as strong as a lion and would be running up the steepest hills but no, they are still hard work and my legs and feet ache at the end of the day. I’m getting better at pacing myself on the steep climbs and my recovery time is improving. Today I ran off the edge of the map and have not yet found a shop that sells them so I have been using way marks and the GPS – this has been interesting especially as I decided to venture off the planned route and try the Montgomery canal as recommended by a couple of locals. It all worked out fine but without a (paper) map it is difficult to know where you are heading other than very locally. The tiny screen is ideal for making sure you’re on the correct track but no good at showing the position of nearby towns, woods etc.
I had a lovely time on the canal towpath, not just admiring the industrial architecture, the locks and lift bridges but the people around here are, without exception, lovely. Whilst phoning Kerriann this afternoon a couple who I had chatted to earlier came and invited me to join them for tea and scones on the towpath! Michael had made the scones himself and Helen only had half a scone so that I could have a full one complete with cream and jam. ‘If you have any problems when you are in Wales just give us a call and we will sort it out’ they said giving me a phone number. What nice people.
I walked a mile or so further on when I met another chap who, it turned out, had a keen interest in wild camping – he usually uses a hammock rather than a tent and is the second person to recommend hammocks. ‘ Would you like some homemade flapjack? It’s made with my friend’s honey and has no sugar.’ Well it would be rude to say no. Thanks Gareth.
Later, a dog walker offered his garden as a camp site. Are the Welsh always this friendly and welcoming or is it that I am looking particularly pathetic?
I am camped up by the canal this evening – it’s by a road bridge so is a little noisy compared with my usual secluded spots but is flat and dry at the moment.
Over 18 miles today.
From Dyke to Duct
Back on Offa’s Dyke today and managed to get a map in a local Post Office. I feel so much more comfortable with an OS map even if I am on a well way marked trail. When I woke up this morning I opened the tent flap and got a brew on the go. Early morning dog walkers on the tow path shouted a jovial good morning across the canal to me thus confirming that this is the friendliest place in the world.
Today I say good bye to The Dyke and headed off to Chirk to meet up with Kerriann and Hugo who have brought up essential supplies. I am also going to take my first day off as I think I have minor sprains in both feet, they hurt if they twist sideways. I think a day off will do me good.
I met a couple of walkers from Cornwall today who have been considering what to do when they retire – they have been walking Offa’s Dyke with friends in weekend stages. They felt the weight of my rucksack and immediately ruled out wild camping LEJOG !
It’s lovely to meet up with Kerriann and Hugo and to have a long soak in a hotel bath.
Chilling in Chirk
It good to have a day off! Long soaks in the bath, checking for injures and eating proper food.
I have spotted an ominous lump on the back of my right foot so must take it easy – I don’t want to exacerbate the problem.
I have been to Chirk once before, to attend the funeral of my friend Len Berry. He was the squire of the wonderful Kirtlington Morris who I once had the privilege of dancing with.
I was never sure why Len and Barbara moved from Oxfordshire to this part of the world but I must say it is beautiful, interesting and the people are so friendly.
It seems rather strange to me that these border lands are home to the riotous, loud and outrageous Border Morris tradition. Did these quiet villages really turn out such fantastic screaming, scary, blacked-up dancers? It appears that they did. I, for one, am surprised but also utterly delighted that good folk keep the tradition alive. We may not fully understand them but the world is all the better for these celebration. So here’s to Border Morris, Cotswold Morris and all of our other wonderful dance traditions.
Rest in peace Len and Barbara and thank you for introducing me to a tradition that I love.
Dee River Scrambling
It was lovely to have a day off with Kerriann yesterday and my body feels better for it too.
Both of my feet still ache a little but that is to be expected I suppose. My right foot has a swelling on the back of the heal that I am keeping an eye on.
Today was meant to be an easy walking day, and it was – apart from an incident this morning; the path disappeared. The track I was on had obviously not been used much and as I progressed it got more and more overgrown. I found myself scrambling over fallen trees and getting hooked up in brambles. I checked on the GPS and I was bang on my red line (my chosen path). Eventually I had to climb a near vertical cliff-face for some 50 feet or so. Not an easy task with a heavy pack on my back.
I think I must have made a mistake when I linked all the paths together to form my final route, either that or the foot path simply hasn’t been walked for 10 years and has returned to nature. It will be interesting to compare the proposed route with my actual route when I extract the data from the GPS and send it to Malcolm the Mapmaster.
The rest of the walk was rather lovely; the river Dee is much larger than I had expected. The path I followed wound its way around the banks, past weirs, mills, and country hamlets. I passed one pub where a customer popped in for lunch in his helicopter. The next one, where I stopped, had a car-park full of posh 4x4s and sports cars. I had two pints of shandy there which cost a fortune, but it was good to sit down and sort out my maps.
The footpaths are strangely quiet, I only met one walker all day; very different to Offa’s Dyke. The chap I did meet, Andy, says that one day he will do what I am doing – well good luck to you Andy and I hope you get as much from it as I am.
As I am getting further from home I am having to carry more maps as Kerriann cannot get up to top up my supplies so often. So I now have 8 OS maps in my rucksack – I should be able to post a couple home by tomorrow evening.
I am camped in the corner of a field near the river, a rather pretty location but am battening down the hatches as rain is forecast.
Pom Pom Man
If you’re planning on losing weight I suggest you walk from Land’s End to John O’Groats. it much a much slimmer Graham who welcomed me in Chirk on the weekend.
His head is like a pom pom on a stick!
It was great to see him and catch up on the details of his walk. He looks very healthy despite a bit of foot unpleasantness and he’s meeting up with a few lovely people along the way.
He’s heading up to Chester today and the weather is looking terrible for the next week. I think he’ll be searching out bunkhouses and hostels over the next few days.
Thanks Tilley
I returned home from meeting up with Graham in North Wales and was excited to find his replacement Tilley hat waiting for me.You may remember Graham was devastated to lose his Tilley and put out a call across Somerset for someone to find it. Alas it did not appear so a replacement was sent.
Thanks for your friendly efficient service Tilley!
I shall deliver it to him on our next meeting which may be sooner than expected due to a presumed change in the weather. Brrrrrrrrr….Dickie (the van) to the rescue perhaps.
A Challenging Walk to Chester
It rained all night but I slept rather well. Sometimes the sound of the rain on the tent can be quite relaxing…..
I stayed dry and warm but I had to get up at some stage which would involve getting wet. At about 7 AM the rain stopped; I made a quick cup of tea and a hot porridge and enjoyed breakfast in bed.
The rain till held off so I went for it. The sleeping bag packed in its bag, the air mattress deflated, rolled and packed in its bag, dirty clothes into the red waterproof (and smell proof) bag, fresh clean clothes out of the blue waterproof bag, tent down and packed (wet), everything loaded into the backpack all within about 10 minutes. A moment later it started raining again.
It seems that the farmers in this area don’t like footpaths, almost all the way-mark signs have been removed, stiles are in very bad order and often covered in barbed wired. One footpath gate had a new four foot deep ditch on one side with no bridge. So, whilst the ground was level it was often ploughed up and going was difficult.
At one stage I found myself, accidentally, on the Duke of Westminster’s private estate, luckily I wasn’t caught. It reminded me of an incident many years ago when I was walking The Test Way with my friends Brian and Dave. We decided to take a short cut through The Duke of Norfolk’s estate and were caught by the man himself who was fly fishing with a friend. We apologised profusely, and sang the praises of his estate and within a few minutes we were best of friends. He even got us holding the trout that he had caught and took a picture of us on our camera. He showed us the best way out of the estate and said ‘ if my man sees you, tell him you have spoken to me’. I still have those photos somewhere!
After getting back on the proper footpath the sun came out for a while and I took the opportunity to hang the tent on a tree to dry out which it did in about half an hour. I then continued into the lovely City of Chester and although I had a dry tent I booked into the backpackers hostel as the weather forecast is not good….again.
Mapmaster Malcolm’s Stats
Latest stats to 22nd April.
Distance: 428 miles
Maximum height: 606 metres
Minimum height: -2.7 metres!
Height ascended: 16542 metres (1.87 Everests)
Height descended: 16495 metres
A fantastic achievement for Graham and his loyal support team – Kerriann and Hugo.
The next few days might be a bit of a shock to the system as Graham has to cross the Liverpool- Manchester conurbation. Ever onwards…
From The Shroppie to Mersey
I seem to be sleeping better in my tent than in hostels. The chap that I shared a dorm with last night in Chester Backpackers watched a movie on his laptop in bed. He fell asleep with the bloody thing repeating the film endlessly all night – he needs to get some headphones and some manners/ consideration.
I worked my way out of the roman city via the North Gate in the city walls and after a couple of mistakes was soon back on the Shropshire Union Canal otherwise known as ‘The Shroppie’. I have noticed before that people near cities are less friendly or more nervous about talking to strangers and they don’t come much stranger that me. I did, however, exchange a few pleasantries with some of the ‘boaties’ and dog walkers on the tow path.
Good progress was being made until I left ‘the cut’ for the North Cheshire Way when all the usual Cheshire footpath problems re occurred; ploughed paths, no way markings, rotten and dangerous stiles, and a general feeling that nobody around here cares a dam about their ancient rights of way. What a shame.
At one point I found myself in the middle of a small anti-fracking protest camp. One of the protestors explained that the farmer has sold one field already and is thinking about selling another to a fracking company. The farmer had also parked a large piece of agricultural machinery across the foot path – the nice protestor helped me over a nearby gate and directed me to the public right of way. Thank you kind sir you are setting a far better example than this local farmer.
I have still covered some 15 miles today and am feeling a little tired so have found a nice little spot for my tent next to some woods. The distant road noise is something I will have to get used to now I am getting into the more industrial regions.
A Plea to Prestonites
Is there anyone in the Preston area who we would be able to post a box of maps to in the next couple of days? He will be there this weekend and will need some more maps and some medication. It’s a bit far for me to drive especially as it’s a Bank Holiday weekend. Any offers would be appreciated.
He could pick them up at your place or meet in a pub for a drink and a handover of aforementioned maps.
Please email me on kgodwinking@aol.com if anyone can help.
Much appreciated
Kerriann
Bridgewater Canal in the Sun and Rain
I’ve been walking along the beautiful Bridgewater Canal in sunshine, snow, rain and hail. Luckily there was more sun than any of the various forms of precipitations!
This canal is over 250 years old and was cut with picks and shovels – a huge engineering project that must have caused massive disruption. But I know that I’m not alone in finding this industrial architecture beautiful as well functional. The Bridgewater is a wide canal. I can’t imagine how many navvies it must have taken to dig it but I for one am glad they did; its tow path is a pleasure to walk.
I don’t appreciates much art but the sweeping curve of the horse bridge or the chunky black and white paddle gear on an old lock takes some beating.
Wild camping in the woods tonight listing to the Folk Awards on Radio 2.
I think it’s going to be a cold one.
Rainy End To My 500 Mile Point
I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more.
Yes today I have walked a total of 506.8 miles according to my trusty old Garmin Dakota GPS. Most of those miles must have been in the right direction as I am noticing that the beer here is served with a ridiculously frothy head and people have funny accents – I must be up North. I think it hit me when I walked over the bridge crossing the Manchester Ship Canal. ‘Crumbs’, I thought that sounds a long way from Cornwall!
I enjoyed the lovely flat towpath walking and the rural Glazebrook trail which was wonderfully well way-marked (see Cheshire it can be done) and had some lovely new kissing gates that were big enough to cope with a man and his backpack (many are too small and require some interesting contortions to negotiate).
Well done Lancashire but can you please sort out your weather! This afternoon, after my lovely pub lunch which included minty mushy peas ( see I really am up North), the skies opened and it rained and rained and rained. The lovely paths were turned into slippery mud baths and slithered all over the place and I started getting depressed. I’m trying to be gentle on my slightly injured feet and sliding around in mud is no good for them or any other part of my anatomy for that matter. So I’ve booked into the nearest accommodation – The Greyhound Hotel in Leigh.
My apologies for the lack of photographs today but I didn’t want to get my phone wet.
I called in the little village Post Office in Glazebrook to get some batteries and it turned out that the post master had walked from John O’Groats to Land’s End a few years ago. He did it in 33 days but without carrying anything other that a small knapsack. ‘It nearly killed me’, he said, ‘took me six months to recover’. ‘I couldn’t have done it with one of those’, he said pointing at my backpack. He also confirmed my thoughts that working my way up the country rather that down is the more sensible option, ‘you don’t get the wind in your face’, he said.
The flashes of lightning and claps of thunder outside my hotel window reassure me that I am better in here than in my tent.
I wonder what tomorrow will bring?
Tracks and Tea Ladies
I’m always surprised how urban and industrial areas have corridors of greenery as well as fields and parkland that can make walking through them an interesting and pleasurable experience. Obviously canals and disused railway lines are good examples of ‘green corridors’ but there are quite a lot of ancient footpaths and public rights-of-way hidden away in our cities and towns.
These old routes need using though; some of the tracks I traveled on today have clearly been forgotten and are overgrown and neglected. A book I read recently (I can’t remember which one) suggested that we should set out to walk all of the rights-of-way within 3 miles of our houses. What a great idea – we would keep the paths open and learn a lot about our locality
.
After a reasonable start this morning the temperature dropped, the wind raised and the rain/hail hit so hard it stung. I wandered into Atherton as soggy as a soaked sponge and spotted a coffee morning sign on the local church. There is a rule in the Graham King walking manual (yet to be written) that it is illegal to pass a tea shop without partaking of a brew – I think a church coffee morning falls under the same category so in I trotted.and I was welcomed like an old friend. Within minutes I had a steaming mug of good strong tea and a hot, toasted tea cake. The lovely ladies directed me to the seat nearest the heater so that I could start drying out and they could not have been more friendly. Thank you ladies, you are doing a great job. If you are passing through Atherton and see the coffee morning sign – pop for a cuppa and give them my regards.
I have spoken to loads of people today, all charming and friendly and many amused at my appearance- l look like an Arctic explorer who has lost his skies.
Negotiating the wilder footpaths below Horwich turned into a nightmare this afternoon. My track got narrower and wetter until I was forced (by a boot full of water) to make the decision to retrace my tracks for a mile or so. Eventually I found a higher, drier track that ran parallel with the official one but all-in-all in cost me an hour or two. Never mind. I learned this lesson when walking the Compostela – if it’s not right you must have the guts to turn around and go back but it is still difficult to walk in what seems to be the wrong direction.
I have booked in to a hotel again as the weather is so cold and wet. I’m enjoying the hot baths but as Kerriann is not here there will be no more bubbly photos of my good self to excite your screen!
Loving Lancaster
Yesterday, I was caught talking to a stone post. I am spending a lot of time on my own on this trip and often find myself having conversations with animals, trees, and inanimate objects like the said post. I had booked into a hotel again as the weather is so cold and wet so I was off any way-marked path. I reached a point where I needed to refold my map within its weatherproof sleeve and saw a convenient place to lean my walking poles. ‘Hello nice stone’ I said, ‘do you mind if I lean my sticks on you?. It was at this point that I noticed the woman trying to squeeze past me and giggling. This was all very embarrassing but you will understand how amused I was to read on Facebook that, around the same time, Kerriann had caught herself chatting to herself in our kitchen.
Staying in hotels and B&Bs has a lot of disadvantages – they are seldom in nice places and are usually next to main roads. This usually means that you have to walk some miles on roads and often in a direction you weren’t planning on going. They also cost money but of course they do provide a nice warm bed, bath and breakfast.
Yesterday, had the weather been better, I would have wild-camped on the banks of the lake and remained on my original path. However, because of the overnight stay I re-planned my route and yet again was amazed that I could walk from South Chorley into central Preston through green countryside. I mainly followed the Number 55 cycle route. I chatted to a few dog-walkers, one of whom waited for me at a gate to let me know that a set of stepping stones had been washed away and she pointed me in the right direction for the diversion. Another dog-walker had always wanted to do some long distance trails but had slipped a disc in his back and was struggling to motivate himself into getting fit enough again. I hope I inspired him to step out that little bit further on each of his walks.
Following Kerriann’s appeal on Facebook for someone in Preston to act as a mail drop and collection point for my maps and medication, Jan and Brian in Fulwood kindly volunteered their services. Not only this but as the weather is still dodgy they offered their spare bed for the night. Lancastrians are a very friendly and helpful bunch!
The planned route registered within my GPS seen to have stopped 20 miles north of Preston and I cannot reload it without my laptop (or another with Garmin Basecamp on it). This does not bother me too much as I am re-writing the route based on local knowledge as I go along. For example Brian has recommended that I follow the Lancaster Canal from here to Lancaster and I may even continue on it up to Kendal to collect some mint cake.
A huge thank you to all the people, animals and things that I have had nice conversations with and a very special thank you to Jan and Brian for sharing their lovely home with me.
A Lancastrian Welcome
Graham had a respite from sleeping in this hideous weather when he was offered a room by Jan and Brian in Preston. They responded to a call-out for someone to send his maps to as it’s a bit far for me to go on my sherpa duties until I take Dickie (the Hymer) up for a few weeks towards the end of his walk.
Due to the rain and cold they offered him a room in their house even though they had not met him before. He was very grateful as am I as I don’t like the idea of him sleeping out in this weather. So thanks very much for your kind hospitality Jan and Brian. Thanks for sending the photos Jan.
on his way
Lancaster Looms
Not only did my hosts give me the run of their home last night they even got up early and made me a lovely breakfast. Thanks again guys!
It rained all day today, not hard but persistent, the sort of rain that makes you really wet. Now my gear is quite good; my Gortex coat worked well and so did my waterproof trousers which, incidentally, I wear over a pair of long johns. I didn’t wear gaiters today as I didn’t expect much mud but will do tomorrow. Even with all this good kit, and even after a lovely relaxing evening, the rain is depressing especially as the forecast said showers. So I have had a shortish day today and booked into the busy Royal Oak in Garstang.
I didn’t enjoy my lunchtime pub stop at Bilsborrow (Owd Nell’s Canalside Tavern).The interesting looking thatch pub was extremely busy but I managed to get to the bar and purchase a bitter shandy. I then made my way to a nearby table and was about to take my backpack off when a young staff member told me that I couldn’t sit down without having pre-ordered food. ‘I just want to sit and look at the menu’, I said, but no she would not let me sit anywhere. I was stuck with my large backpack on my back, a pair of walking poles in my left hand and a pint in my right……….
I left the pub soon after as they clearly didn’t want my custom – they need to do some staff training too. Never mind, I met some nice walkers on the towpath that recommended the Royal Oak where I am now staying. They also told me how much they enjoyed The West Highland Way which I am looking forward to tackling later in this trip. With any luck the weather will be a bit better tomorrow and I will continue along the grass towpath to Lancaster and maybe beyond…
Singing for Sunshine
This morning started out drizzly and damp, I fought hard to remain cheerful but it is hard to smile when the weather is frowning.
So I sang May songs:
Winter time is gone and past Oh,
Summer time is here at last Oh…
Still it rained
For Summer is a coming in
And winters gone away Oh.
Still it rained
To keep my spirits up I applied the number one rule in ‘Grahams Walking Manual’, i.e.,never pass a tea shop without calling in.
‘Sit by my radiator, it will warm you up’, insisted the tea lady. ‘Have a free sample of our flapjack’. I must add that to my list of rules…..never turn down free flapjack.
Whilst sipping my tea and drying my dripping clothes I noticed a strange phenomena through the window – a small patch of blue sky. After my second cup of tea the rain had stopped and things were definitely brightening up.
By around 3 o’clock I was unzipping pit-vents in my coat and even lowering the side vent-zips in my waterproof trousers. I was warm and dry and the sun was shining. Hooray! As the sun came out so did the people: walkers, runners dog walkers etc. The walk into lovely Lancaster got quite busy.
I spoke to one chap who was training for the three peaks walk – apparently it’s 24 miles and has 5000 feet of elevation. He said that the record is around 2 and a half hours! Apparently the fell-runners run up the peaks then belt down the slopes at about 20 miles an hour! Madness!
I’m pitched up in a field next to the canal. The sun is shining onto the tent and I can feel its warmth radiating from the fabric.
I should join the Lancashire coastal path for a while tomorrow; just around Morecambe Bay before heading for the Lake District.
I think I must be around half way to John O’Groats. The original length of my planned walk was about 1260 miles but I have modified the track quite a lot as I’ve spotted better routes. I suspect that my remaining distance is something like the 567 miles that I have already walked.
Let’s see what Malcolm the Map Master says………
A Great Pub on a Great walk
It’s lovely to wake up in my tent having spent a whole night in it without a drop of rain.
I purchased a new thermal sleeping-bag liner in Preston and it seems to work really well. I was using a simple silk liner which was ok but there is no doubt that the new one is warmer and stretchy so it’s not so restricting.
I walked a few miles of the Lancashire Coast Path around some of Morecambe Bay. You can see why it’s so dangerous; miles of tidal mud flats. Then I cut across to the Lancaster Canal again but this section is unused and unusable. Someone however takes the trouble to look after the towpath and the local Canal Trust has provided some very welcome seating along the route.
A lady on the towpath, the only person I met today, told me that The Smithy Inn in Holme does good food. They were very busy coping with a funeral but found me a seat with a 13 amp socket so I could charge my bits and served the best steak pie in the world! On the way out the land lord said ‘ don’t forget to pass your water bottles across the bar for filling up’. Lovely friendly service with good food, what more could you ask for. I highly recommend it!
I’ve covered 18.2 miles today; mind you it was mainly flat and nice grass to walk on. The sunshine helps a lot too.
Top up with Kendal mint cake tomorrow!
Nightly Guide to Stop-Over Locations
Should be halfway tomorrow – 609 miles
For anyone interested here is a night by night location guide to the walk
Wild camping locations
21th March
Carn Boal the Sw coast path and the Michael Mary Pilgrim trail No services – very exposed but beautiful N 50deg 03.475′. W 005deg 42.12′
22 March
Newlyn by the fishermans carpark
N50deg 06.030 W 005deg 30.663
23rd March
Edge of field
50 deg 08.080 W 005deg 19.708
24 March
Premier Inn (as its pissing down and all the b&bs are full!) Carnon Downs N 50 deg 13.595 W 005deg 04.978
25th March
Lovely spot by the river Fal between Tregony and Grampound
N50°16.614 W 004°54.717. ( now found where the ° symbol is on an ipad!)
26th March
Eden project YHA
27th March
Eden valley holiday park
Met up with Kerriann and stayed in our motorhome Nl 50°24.145 W004° 41.903
28th March
Lanhydrock NT carpark
Kerriann to the motorhome to Lanhydrock and I walked to it.
The NT kindly let us stAy the night.
Lots of good wild camping sites on the NT estate especially by the river.
29th March
Cheeswring Farm B&B
Minions
30th March
Near ish to Lazant
Camped in woods – signs say keep out but………
N 50°35.222′ W004°19.05′
31st March
Edge of Dartmoor
N50°36.982 W 004°07.789′
1st April
YHA Okehampton 139.4 miles so far.
2nd April
Shirley pool on Dartmoor – simply gorgeous!
N50°42.295 W003°54.584
3rd April
The Drew Arms In the bunkhouse
Drewsteignton
4th April
High ground to the South West of Stockleigh Pomeroy N 50° 48.788 ‘ W003°35.842
Edge of meadow – lovely views. 171 miles to date
5th April
Wild camping on a bit of rough ground adjoining a field next to the towpath Stampford Peverell Ok in an emergency but not ideal.
N50°54.845 W003°23.430. 187.3 miles so far.
6th April
Taunton staying with friends 203.5
7th April
Wild camping inside the ruined church on Burrow Mump I couldn’t resist!
N50°04.228′ W002°54.973′. 216.7
8th April
The George and Pilgrim
Glastonbury. 235.6
9th April
Wells in motorhome with Kerriann. 244.4
10th April
Wild Camping on edge of field near Chew Stoke
N51° 21.375′ W 002°38.796′ 257.3
11th April
Bristol yha. As it is pissing down! 265.9
12th April
In woods above Chepstow.
N 51°39.041 W002°40.887. Lovely old woods 286.6m
13 th April
Camp site in Monmouth. 301.8
14th April. 311.5
YHA Wye Valley. A lovely youth hostel – old rectory with its own church!
Note change of format of locations for Malcolm Addition of Long distance path code for John (John I hope the above change is ok with you)
15th April. 326.3 Wvp. Wye valley path
51 59.620 -2 35.677
Capier camp. Wild camping in old hill fort. Tucked into a corner to be discrete.
No facilities.
16th April. 339.4. Wvp
Wild camping adjacent to trig point – side of field – elevated position lovely views No facilities
52 03.526 -2 47.539
17th April
Wild camping on top of a wooded hill on the Herefordshire Trail
Nice spot – plenty of room and flat. 355.9. Ht
52 07.549 -3 4.940
18th April
Wild camping besides the Offas Dyke Path which is in fact a farm track here. Ok for one tent.
No facilities. 370.7 OD
52 14.642 -3 03.520
19th April
Wild camping in vacant field next to Offas Dyke which is also next to the Offas Dyke Path (OD) Nice flat field In elevated location – near trig point. Should catch the morning sun.
No facilities
52 23.984 -3 05.778. 383.8 OD
20th April. 396.9. Close to OD
B&B tonight – very nice too – bath with radox! Washing being done for me Slightly off the Offas Dyke path in Montgomery. Spar and PO also in village.
Llwyn house, Market Square, SY15 6PY.
21st April
Wild camping beside the canal near Clawdd Coch. 415.2. OD
52 46.241 -3 06.465
Near road bridge a tad noisy.
Flat and on the non towpath side. No facilities.
22nd April. 430.8
The Hand Hotel Church road Chirk
Sorry no gps indoors so no lat/long
Has seen better days but is cheep and accepts dogs – Kerriann has driven up with medication and maps.
23rd April
As above
24th April
Wild camping just North of Bangor-on- Dee. 444.8 DW
Corner of field under trees on The Dee Way 100m from River – very nice.
Evidence of past flooding.
53 00.832 -2 54.778
25th April
Chester Backpackers Hostel. 461.2
Boughton rd
Chester
53 11.547 -2 52.703
26th April
Wild camping near Netherton Cheshire on the North Cheshire Way ( NCW)
Edge of field adjacent to woodland. Other possible sites in the woods.
No Facilities.
53 16.668 -2 44.104. 476.5
27th April
Wild camping in woods near Grappehall 492.9
Woodland trust woods under young silver birch – flat and dry.
53 22.179 -2 32.436
28th April
Checked into The Greyhound Hotel as it was pissing down!
Warrington Road, Leigh,WN7 3XQ. 506.8
29th April
Booked into Premier Inn as weather so bad- passed some very good wild camping locations on the East bank of the Lower Rivington Reservoir – was tempted until I felt the cold wind!
South Chorley Premier Inn, Bolton Road, Chorley. 523.9
53 38.424. -2 37.028
30th April. 539.1
Been offered a bed for the night in Forton – willingly accepted!
PR2 9QH
1st May
Royal Oak Garstang on the Lancaster Canal towpath and Wyre Way
PR3 1 ZA
£45 per night b&b 551.4
2nd May
Wild camping again (at last) on edge of field next to tow path on the Lancaster canal. Near Hest Bank.
No facilities
54 04.848. -248.898. 567.6
3rd May
Wild camping in Larkrigg Spring a small bluebell wood on the Lancaster Canal path. Not that the canal exists any more here.
No facilities
54 17.057 -2 44.721. 586.0
Wonderful Windemere
600.8 miles covered so far!
That’s what my old Garmin Dakota GPS tells me and that is a personal record. I walked the Camino de Santiagio de Compostela across Spain some 12 years ago which was almost exactly 600 miles long so I can now say that this is the longest walk that I have done in my life. Or maybe I should say so far in my life. Tomorrow I hope to have passed my half-way point which Malcolm the Map Master tells me happens at 609 miles.
I’ve been spoiled will all that flattish walking on canal towpaths and my legs are telling me that they don’t like the Lake District hills, but my mind is simply loving the views.
I walked into Kendal today and went into a couple of computer shops to see if I could sort out my GPS which is working fine but not showing my planned route.
The first shop had an unhelpful attitude but the second one was great and simply let me use one of their PCs – thanks lads. I didn’t sort the problem but did download my track log – a record of exactly where I have walked – and sent it to Malcolm who ,I’m sure, will put the track on a map and publish it here.
Any Garmin experts out there? The GPX file displays the full route when connected to a PC but only about half (the southern half) on the GPS. I suspect the file is simply too big and next time I can get to a computer with Garmin Basecamp installed Il try deleting the southern way points ( halving the size of the file) and see if that works.
On my next long walk I may buy a newer Garmin that is compatible with my phone and Ipad but they’re not cheap.
I’m in my tent which is tucked away behind a rock ledge on the hills above Windemere. I’ve Just started listening to the folk program on Radio 2 so I will say good night, see you tomorrow…..
Map Master Updates to May 3rd
20th April
B&B tonight – very nice too – bath with radox! Washing being done for me. Slightly off the Offas Dyke path in Montgomery. Spar and PO also in village. Llwyn house, Market Square, SY15 6PY.
21st April
Wild camping beside the canal near Clawdd Coch.Near road bridge a tad noisy. Flat and on the non towpath side. No facilities.
22nd April.
The Hand Hotel Church Road Chirk.Has seen better days but is cheap and accepts dogs – Kerriann has driven up with medication and maps.
23rd April
As above. Was this actually a day off?
24th April
Wild camping just North of Bangor-on- Dee. Corner of field under trees on The Dee Way 100m from River – very nice. Evidence of past flooding.
25th April
Chester Backpackers Hostel. Boughton Rd Chester
26th April
Wild camping near Netherton Cheshire on the North Cheshire Way ( NCW).Edge of field adjacent to woodland. Other possible sites in the woods.
27th April
Wild camping in woods near Grappehall. Woodland trust woods under young silver birch – flat and dry.
28th April
Checked into The Greyhound Hotel as it was pissing down! Warrington Road, Leigh,WN7 3XQ.
29th April
Booked into Premier Inn as weather so bad- passed some very good wild camping locations on the East bank of the Lower Rivington Reservoir – was tempted until I felt the cold wind
30th April.
Been offered a bed for the night in Fulwood – willingly accepted! PR2 9QH
1st May
Royal Oak Garstang on the Lancaster Canal towpath and Wyre Way. PR3 1 ZA. £45 per night b&b
2nd May
Wild camping again (at last) on edge of field next to tow path on the Lancaster canal. Near Hest Bank. No facilities
3rd May
Wild camping in Larkrigg Spring a small bluebell wood on the Lancaster Canal path. Not that the canal here exists any longer.
Malcolm Baker
No Sign of a Steak on the Stake Pass
Listened to the Radio 4. weather forecast this morning:- it will be a lovely sunny day across the country ………apart from Cumbria and Northumberland’.
How annoying. It actually wasn’t too bad in the morning, just drizzle and the threat of rain. By lunchtime the sun was out. Dropped into Ambleside and did some shopping: new ferrules for my poles (the 4th set this walk), new gas cylinder for my stove, new OS map etc. All from Cotswold as they are such a nice company to deal with. Then Bilbo’s cafe where they sell tea by the pint – excellent.
There was a steep climb out of Ambleside so I stopped at the bottom and took off my jacket as it was now getting quite warm. I also hung my map wallet on the gate whilst removing my rucksack . I’d climbed the hill before realising that the maps were missing so back down the hill I went as quickly as I could. When I got to the gate a fellow walker was looking through the contents for a phone number to call me. Very nice of her. So, rather like the grand old Duke of York’s men, I marched up to the top of the hill again. A little further on I stopped for a breather and to take advantage of the warm breeze to dry my tent which was soaked with dew and condensation.
While this was going on, a lovely old man came down off the mountain beside me. We had a lovely chat. It turned out that he was from Yorkshire and was 86 years old. Some years ago he had scattered his wife’s ashes on the mountain and placed a plaque there in her memory. ‘Every year I come with some Wet and Dry to polish it up, I don’t bother with the wet, I just use spit’.
He said he still had his backpacking tent and gear but ‘I don’t use it nowadays cos I’m knackered’. I commented they he wasn’t that knackered if he could still get up the hill he had just come down.’God gave us this lovely countryside to enjoy……..you have a lovely walk boy’, he said and I think he wished he could join me.
I’ve ended up the day on a National Trust campsite near the famous Dungeon Ghyll Pub where I had a lovely meal. I visited this pub some 40 years ago but still remember the great folk music and song session there. As I finished my meal at about 8 30 musicians were turning up but I was too exhausted to stay; it was already a late night by my standards on this walk.
A other very steep climb tomorrow on the path to Keswick
The Cumbrian Way
Only 11 miles today but a spectacular 11 miles and a climb of some 500 meters over Stake Pass.
This was bloody hard work, especially with my heavy pack on my back so I took the advice of the experts and went very slowly. The views were spectacular, breathtaking and well worth the sweat and pain. These Lake district valleys are a world away from civilisation; no road or tractor noise, no phone signal, no FM radio signal, no anything apart from beautiful scenery. I am currently following the Cumbrian Way which I am told is a popular long distance path but I met very few people on it despite today’s lovely weather.
I’ve enjoyed hearing a cuckoo merrily cuckooing across the valleys most of the day. I managed to make the pub in time for a lovely lunch then walked a few miles along the Borrowdale Valley before finding a good tree to hang my tent from to let it dry out. This morning there was a heavy dew and the sun was hazy so it wouldn’t dry it out. By mid-afternoon the haze had gone. Several people stopped and told me how comfortable I looked lying under my drying tent leaning on my rucksack which in turn was leaning on a tree.
I have now wild camped in the woods above Derwent Water which I am currently looking over as I write this blog. Keswick for breakfast and supplies tomorrow.
(Photos for this post can be seen on the previous post – Kerriann)
Garmin Sorted and First Night in a Bothy
Woke up this morning to a hazy sun that continued to shine all day. I wandered the 4 or 5 miles into Keswick and had a lovely breakfast and topped up my supplies:
Porridge – the sachets that you simply add water too.
Mixed nuts and raisins – good on their own or for adding to the above
Drinking chocolate sachets
Gas – spare cylinder for my stove
Map – the next OS explorer , I will need it tomorrow all being well.
Ibuprofen – anti inflammatory tablets for when my feet hurt.
Water – filled up my two 75ml bottles
Breakfast bars – to snack on whilst walking
Kendal mint cake – wasn’t on my list but thought I should have some while in the Lake District
Fruit- a large orange – I try and get one or two fresh fruits a day.
Batteries – AA batteries for my GPS – it uses a pair every day and a half.
My only remaining task was to find a computer shop to have another go at fixing the problem with my GPS; it’s not displaying my planned track. I asked at Cotswold Outdoors if they had a Garmin expert and was told that Alex was my man. He was busy I could wait in their library. Alex was incredibly helpful as are all the Cotswold staff. I explained my problem and we decided that I was probably correct in thinking that my Land’s End to John O’Groats file was too big for the device. We found that one of the office computers had the correct software, and very soon deleted half the waypoints (the ones I have passed) and renamed the file LeJog North and my lovely green line appeared once more on my display.
This makes it so much quicker to check that I’m on the correct path.
So yet again I find myself praising the team at Cotswold Outdoors especially Alex who helped me solve a problem that was proving very difficult without internet or a computer.
Leaving Keswick in a good mood, I tackled my first hill of the day and was pleased to reach the summit which happened to have a small car park used by walkers. At the end of the car park was a chap selling ice creams and I ordered a mint magnum. We chatted while he dug out the item and he only charged me half price became he admired what I was doing so much. It turned out he was a walker who has had to give up due to a back injury. He was reading Ranulph Fiennes’ books; ‘I still crave the adventure’, he said. His back is recovering so good luck to him.
I continued on the Cumbria Way which is simply stunning. It can be difficult in places with some steep climbs and a bit of scrabbling to avoid muddy/ flooded parts, but it is a great trail.
After a big hard climb up to 1932feet I have come across my first bothy (a free sleeping hut for walkers), so I’ve stopped a little early. I’ve still managed over 13 miles which I don’t think is too bad over this terrain with a heavy pack.
The wind is whistling around my little house and I can feel the temperature dropping fast.
I’ll shut the door, light a candle, and get a brew on the go.
Then an early night.
A Difficult Beautiful Path
Had a lovely first night in a bothy.
Lingy Hut is, in fact, little more than a large garden shed but it’s in the most amazing location on the top of the fells. It’s at an altitude of about 1900 feet. There’s nothing in the hut other than a raised sleeping area, and a chair. I was on my own so luxuriated in all the space compared with my tiny tent. There is something about these special, high fells – I feel extremely privileged to have spent time here, on my own, contemplating the beauty of this incredible part of our country.
I am extremely thankful to the volunteer team who maintain this bothy. I felt sad to leave my lovely hut but the sun was rising and most of today’s walking would be down hill. Looking back at the fells I got a sense of pride: ‘I have just walked over those’, I said to myself as I looked at the massive mountain range now behind me.
I stopped at a village shop and bought some provisions including factor 15 sun screen as I could already feel my arms burning.
The shopkeeper confirmed what a dog walker had told me – the Cumbria Way was blocked ahead and I should divert to the west a few miles. This I did but when I rejoined the walk I found the next section was also closed because the bridge had collapsed. All the way today there has been evidence of devastating flooding; it reminded me of Boscastle.
I had a lovely strip wash in the river again today and even washed my underwear and socks – this is luxury for the long distance backpacker!
I could have continued further today but would have soon hit the suburbs of Carlisle and camping would be difficult. I am close the River Caldew but not on the bank; too many insects.
Hadrian’s wall tomorrow possibly………….
Along Hadrian’s Wall
Had an early morning wash the river which is a great way to wake up!
Walked into Carlisle to top up supplies and get a good breakfast but struggled to find anything other than Starbucks, McDonald’s and other big brands that charge a lot for very little. Eventually I stumbled on an American Diner which was fun; I had French toast with bacon followed by a stack of pancakes- all with maple syrup and fruit.
I love being able to eat whatever I want without worrying about getting fat.
I Also charged my batteries a bit at the diner- it’s a real problem getting them topped up when I have a long run of wild camping. All I can do is use pubs and cafes but some days I don’t pass any. So please excuse my short responses to emails etc as I’m trying to minimise my time with the phone switched on. You may wonder, then, how I am doing the blog every day. I get into my tent at night and write up my day then send it and my photos to Kerriann who tidies up the spelling and grammar, downloads the photos and basically manages the blog site for me.
This afternoon I’ve been walking The Hadrian’s Wall Path with has been fairly boring compared with the Cumbria Way. This section has, however, been fairly flat and I have clocked up about 16 miles, not bad in this heat. I’ve met quite a lot of walkers today including a couple of women who met and planned this walk whilst doing VSO work in Nepal. There were also a couple of Dutch guys, some nice Canadians and two young American girls who were suffering from the heat. I was told of another American party that had given up and got a taxi to the end of the wall. Apparently his pedometer had registered 22 miles on a route that his guide book said was 13 miles!
Not much of ‘the wall’ to be seen at the moment , just lumps and bumps in the ground. Let’s see what tomorrow brings.
Balaclavas and Bothys
I knew today would be a good one. Soon after I had started walking a young deer jumped the fence in front of me. It saw me and fled down an adjoining field. I watched it for some time. It came across a high (deer-proof ?) fence that it couldn’t jump and stood and thought about things. It glanced at me, I was still a threat so it then patrolled the fence until it found a slightly lower section, took a few paces back so that it had a run up, and up and over it went. A lovely display. I felt sorry for him (or her) as he must have been really frightened of me. I always feel that I’ve been blessed when I see a deer or a hare, especially when I get a wonderful display of their gymnastics.
Hadrian’s Way also became much more interesting today but also a bit harder work. There are long sections of ‘The Wall’ still standing. It is a hugely popular walk and I spent a lot of time talking to my fellow walkers. Some were kind enough to take pictures for me. Everyone was impressed with my achievement to date but I must play it down or not mention it sometimes. I was chatting to a very large chap who was making very slow progress up one hill. He was, however, walking a 35 mile section of particularly difficult long distance path on a very hot day. And he was doing it with a huge smile on his face and was enjoying himself. Good on him; his achievement with his friend is something to be proud of.
I had to laugh at some of the Americans I met, all of whom seemed to be dressed for a different climate than we were experiencing. One person was wearing a thermal balaclava whilst I was in shorts and t shirt!
As the day was drawing to a close and I was feeling a little tired my spirits were lifted by chatting to a group of chaps from Surrey who were clearly impressed by the magnificent views and scenery they had been experiencing. They had been talking about tackling LeJog so were particularly interested to hear about my route. I hope that I can help them achieve that ambition.
After my last excellent night in a bothy I thought I would try Haughton Green as it is more or less on my route. It’s a little further than I would usually walk but I wanted to give it a go. As I approached the little cottage I was watching the chimney. Was that smoke ? I half convinced myself that it was and that the bothy would be full when a beautifully dressed red and white fox ran out from the front ‘garden’ of the cottage. Now he wouldn’t be there if there were other people around, I thought. No, I have the place to myself. A pile of logs sits next to the wood burner, candles and night-lights are on the shelf and there are even some ready meals in the box. The home made bunk beds look like luxury.
I’ve washed my socks and top with water from the rain water butt and they are hanging over the roaring wood-burner. A joyful gold candle with sparkly bottom is illuminating the room and I’m having a large cup of tea with some of those little hotel milk cartons that some considerate person has donated. My only regret is that my whisky flask is empty.
So let’s have a huge round of applause for all the walkers that have achieved their personal bests today and an even bigger round for the volunteers that provide and look after these wonderful bothys.
Flap to the Rescue
Today was perfect walking weather. The sun shone but through a haze and there was a fresh breeze. I started the day wearing long trousers and my warm shell top but by 9 am it was clear that this arrangement would be too hot and I changed into shorts and T-Shirt.
Soon after setting out I ran out of map. I stupidly thought that the double sided OS map had one side above the other but this one did not. So I was dependent on the GPS and the waymarking which is pretty good on the Pennine Way. I just feel uncomfortable when I haven’t got the correct map with me.
I also discovered last night that my emergency phone/iPad battery pack was totally dead. I think something must have rested on the ‘on’ button when I stored it in my rucksack. I will tape something over the button to stop that happening again.
Luckily, the walking was good and by lunchtime I was in Bellingham where I had a good meal, got some charge into my phone and battery pack, picked up a few supplies, and there was a post office that had the maps I needed. I also got some spare GPS batteries as the next section over the Cheviots looks rather wild.
I had been told how busy the Pennine Way was so I didn’t expect to walk a complete day, some 17 miles, without meeting a single walker. I can seen plenty of mud prints so people were about over the weekend but not a soul today.
I must mention the farm that I passed that had converted one of its outbuildings into a walkers’ support room. It had a toilet, shower, kettle and tea-making kit, chocolate biscuits, crisps and cold drinks. ‘Help yourself and make a donation’, the sign said.
They were keeping up an old tradition of helping walkers – good on them!
I don’t have a phone signal here so there may be problems getting this to you in a timely manner, so accept my apologies if it’s a little late.
Plodding Along the Pennine Way
I walked 17.8 miles of the Pennine Way today without meeting another walker.I did, however, meet two cyclists in the Kielder Forest and asked if there were any food shops in Byrness thinking they had come from that direction. ‘I don’t know’, one of them said, ‘but you’d better have these just in case’, and handed me two caramel bars!
It turned out that there is an amazing and famous place amongst Pennine-wayers; establishment called The Forest View Inn. This is the mid-terraced home of Colin and Joyce who love looking after walkers. I knocked at the door and was welcomed in; ‘the restaurant is closed at the moment but I’ll gladly make you a sandwich,and help yourself to as many free teas as you want’, said Colin. Their house is an inn, a restaurant, a pub, a campsite, a hotel, a walkers’ information centre, a shop and many more things besides.
Colin explained that this is not Pennine Way season yet but in a few weeks it will be really busy. ‘I’ve had to open a bunk house over the road’, he said, ‘I simply can’t bear turning walkers away’.
He also told me that the maps for the section I was about to walk are usually out of date – the woods have been cleared. The paths have changed or been rerouted. He was right; both my new OS map and my GPS OS map showed the Way in different locations to the actual path.
Some of the paths were quite boggy and whilst avoiding a particularly bad section I grazed my leg on a tree stump. I think it’s all OK – I’ve cleaned it up with water and applied some Germolene. I also have a slightly sunburnt left calf. Might wear long trousers tomorrow.
Another common complaint about the Pennine Way is that ‘it is nearly all paved’. Well, this is not the case with the 40 or so miles I have walked. Where there is some paving it has been sympathetically done in granite which blends in to the surroundings – it is infinitely better than getting boots full of mud.
I passed through Scotland today and am just on the English side of the border in the Yearning Saddle Mountain Refuge Hut for the night. A basic hut but location, location, location.
Will I Take the High Road or the Low Road?
Hooray I arrived in Scotland today.
I dipped my toe into Scotland yesterday but I’m well and truly across the border now.
I had to cut across country this morning; there were no footpaths, just a few mountain tracks, and lots of nothing. But thankfully my navigation was on form and after an hour or so I wandered off the slopes onto a farmer’s track that led me through the farm
Whilst I know that there are no trespass laws here I was a tad nervous as I proceeded. Within moments of my climbing over the gate a woman appeared from nowhere and, standing by her car, shouted ‘want a lift?’ I politely declined but was relieved that it wasn’t a ‘get off my land’ shout.
Moments later, a chap approached and asked me where I had walked from. We got chatting and I filled my water bottle from his outdoor tap: ‘fresh spring water’, he said. I tasted it and it was lovely. ‘You’d better take these for you lunch’, he said, ‘half a dozen bantam eggs, they’ll be nice scrambled’. So within an hour of being in Scotland I had been offered a lift and given 6 eggs – and I had only met two people.
Interestingly, the farmer told me that he met a woman last year who was doing LeJog but in B&Bs so I must have picked a route that others use. This was confirmed later when walking to my B&B in Jedbrough I met another LeJoger, Richard has been catching up with me for a few weeks. He is pre-booking B&Bs and averaging around 20 miles a day.
The farmer was most amused that I had stayed in the mountain refuge hut. ‘Wasn’t it bloody cold?’ ‘Yes’, was the only honest response I could give.
There is a tradition amongst walkers who use bothies that you leave any surplus items in your rucksack for others. In the hut last night there was a partly used gas bottle, several batteries, and an emergency blanket. I had nothing to leave so I gave the hut a clean and sang it a song. I have done this with all of my Bothy stays. It leaves a nice atmosphere. This morning’s song was the traditional folk song The Immigrant – ‘I’m a stranger in this country’.
I met Richard again in the pub and briefly swapped LeJog stories; he is enjoying every inch of his walk and doing very well. There is a good chance that we’ll cross paths again in a few days time as he is having a day off tomorrow and he’s travelling about 5 miles a day further than me.
I’m looking forward to having all clean clothes to wear in the morning – my landlady is washing them as we speak…….
The town has run out of OS explorer 338 maps so tomorrow I will be walking mapless – l have spare batteries for the GPS.
A Kinky Path
As I stayed in a B&B last night my start was a little later than usual. I was on the road about 9 .15 and the sun was already high in the sky and warm. I’ve been walking south west most of the day to Hawick. Yes, south west, the wrong direction but there are no obvious paths heading towards Edinburgh so I had to incorporated this weird kink into the plan. It felt very strange after 7 weeks of heading north-ish.
I’m very impressed with the lovely rolling hills and beautiful rivers of the borders and the friendly attitude of every one that I’ve met.
I just met a lovely local fox. I think he was up to no good checking out the newborn lambs but he did look very handsome.
I’ve pitched my tent next to a trig point (my first Scottish one!) on the hills above Hawick with stunning views in all directions.
It’s now 8 o’clock and the sun is getting low in the sky and as it does I can feel the temperature dropping. It might be a cold night.
If I get up early I should make Selkirk for a late breakfast/ early lunch.
The Gifts of The Southern Upland Way
I awoke to lovely views and a slightly damp tent but by seven o’clock in the morning the warmth of the sun had dried everything out nicely. It was a pleasant eight or so mile stroll into Selkirk on the Border Abbeys’ Way watching deer and foxes doing their early morning thing. I didn’t meet a soul until around 10am when a few day-walkers started to appear.
I stocked up with supplies in Selkirk including GPS batteries as none of the shops had OS maps. Yesterday I managed to obtain a local guide book map that was better than nothing but from Selkirk onwards I have been reliant on the GPS and way-mark signs.
It was a steep climb up to The Three Brethren, a local landmark hill capped by three stone cairns. As I lugged myself up to the top I was met by a lovely young (by my standards) couple who obviously noticed my waning energy and offered me a Mars bar. ‘Actually you may as well take them all’, he said, handing me five bars and a bottle of Lucozade. He then produced a Southern Upland Way pin and presented it to me, ‘in recognition of my long walk’. The pin is now proudly attached to my rucksack next to the Santiago de Compostela badge. I will treasure that gift.
What nice people there are around here. I walked away from the Three Brethren refreshed and full of energy partly from the sugar hit but mainly from the encouragement, generosity and conviviality of the locals. Thanks guys!
I spoke to several other walkers this afternoon – everybody upheld the fine tradition of being helpful and courteous to fellow walkers.
I must put the Southern Lowlands Way on my wish list and come back and walk all of it.
My tent is now pitched by some trees in Minch Moor and I have just found a rather nice lizard trying to get into my rucksack.
Map Update
For those interested in following Graham’s route on a map or two he has sent me a few through today that detail his last couple of weeks as he headed to Scotland.
Here they are:
LEJOG Lake District
Malcolm does Maps
Graham’s just sent me his overnight stays up to last night, 16th May. The march on Scotland continues apace and he’s within sight of Edinburgh.
There’s a new symbol on the maps – the black square (there aren’t that many symbols to choose from and a racing car didn’t seem appropriate) means bothy or walkers’ shelter. The others are as before – “tent” is camping (usually wild), “house” is B&B or staying with friends, acquaintances or simply those who’ve taken pity on him, “motorhome”, strangely enough, still means motorhome.
According to his GPS (which doesn’t always agree with my mapping software, but hey-ho) he’d walked 787.2 miles up to last night. 57 nights away from Boscastle and 57 days walking, allowing for the meagre 1 rest day. So an impressive daily average of 13.8 miles, compared with 11.8 miles averaged in the first three weeks of the walk.
A mere 375 miles to go – but some tough walking on the way. On the basis of his recent performance, he might hit John O’Groats by 12th June, which would be comfortably within his original estimate.
I can only admire from my armchair…”
Malcolm the Map Master
Getting Closer to Edinburgh
Sunny hot days and chilly nights seem to be the theme for the Scottish leg of my walk so far.
It’s been a lovely day for walking but my fingers are starting to go numb with the cold as I type this and it’s only 8 o’clock in the evening.
I’ve enjoyed watching the fish jumping in the Tweed and also watching the fly fishermen not catching them.
I covered 17.8 miles today mainly through coniferous woods and along the river Tweed.
The visitor centre in Tweed was the third one I have visited that has run out of OS maps; apparently their supplier has gone bust. Thankfully there was a bookshop with a good supply so I am a happy man – at last I have a map for the path I am walking and the next map (Edinburgh area) ready.
I’m getting near Edinburgh and Glasgow so am mentally preparing myself for the culture shock – difficult whilst lying in my tent listening to the birds and the wind……
Have to stop and warm my hands up now.
Grouchy and Soggy
First I must thank Malcolm the Map Master for the lovely progress maps and reports – thanks Malcolm.
I think the reason that the distances are slightly different on Malcolm’s software and my GPS are: my GPS is recording where I walk even if it is in the wrong direction. I often deviate from the planned route, sometimes to take a short cut, visit a shop or attraction or more often when I take a wrong turn or direction. Malcolm’s software is expecting me to walk the route I had planned by stringing together several long distance footpaths.
The distance walked today is over 17 miles and that brings the total distance walked to 805.7 miles. Tonight I am in the Travelodge in Edinburgh as there is rain forecast. I’ve just had a long soak in the bath and am washing loads of clothes.
Last night I didn’t sleep very well mainly because I was cold and damp. I had an accident with a cup of water which I spilt inside the tent soaking my sleeping bag and liner.
A few nights ago there was another incident involving chicken soup and an ordinance survey map but I digress….
Kerriann detected that my mood was not good when I phoned her this morning. I think the lack of sleep and lack of decent walking path (I was on an old disused railway line) along with traffic noise added to my slight depression. Even the big full Scottish breakfast that I ate in a roadside cafe didn’t really lift my spirits.
It wasn’t until the ground started to rise and I left the houses behind to the north of Penicuik that my spirits lifted. As I walked up Glencorse I could hear the military drum and pipe band playing in Penicuik barracks. I tried walking in time with the music but a military march is too fast for me especially up hill.
It was interesting to see the cup marked ancient stone against the kirk up here.
Later, on the Pentland Hill, I passed the firing ranges and paid particular attention to my navigation making sure I avoided all the danger areas marked on the map.
I stopped for half an hour to dry the tent out by hanging it on a sign post and was thinking about wild camping, I even checked out some spots by Bonaly Reservoir that looked ok, but I pressed on and before I knew it I was in the outskirts Edinburgh. I used my phone to find B&Bs near me but most didn’t answer their phones and those that did did not have a room for a single person so I’m in a Travelodge again.
I don’t particularly like these places but they do have a bath and they are dry and comfortable. I do, however, like Edinburgh and used to spend quite a lot of time working in the National Library of Scotland and drinking in the folky pubs here. If the weather is bad tomorrow I may find a better B&B and take a rest day or I might have a shorter day’s walking.
I’m quite looking forward to strolling along the Union Canal for a few days heading towards Glasgow.
Let’s see what sort of mood I’m in after a night’s sleep in a proper bed.
Beards Unite
As I set out this morning I had a brief chat with a poor young employee of Starbucks. He had turned up to work at 5.30 (they open at 6am) and nobody arrived to let him in. It was now raining and getting on for 8.30 and still he waited. I advised him to nip into the Travelodge and phone Starbucks head office. I hope his day gets better…..
Walking into the southern suburbs of Edinburgh I was overtaken by some young soldiers in camo gear complete with rucksacks that looked very heavy. They might have been faster but I bet they weren’t walking as far as me.
Kerriann is getting excited/worried about her forthcoming adventure. She is going to drive Dickie out motorhome and Hugo our dog to Somerset for a service then start catching me up with a view to offering me support and eventually a lift home. The motorhome is quite wide and Scottish back roads are quite narrow so she is a tad nervous but from my experience last year she won’t have a problem. She is a very good driver.
This morning drizzly weather cleared around lunchtime and I took my jacket off and had a lovely walk on the Union Canal in the sun, then, at about 5 o’clock, it started raining and showed no sign of stopping. I found a pub/hotel in Winchburgh and asked for a room – yes, they had one.
Later in the evening I was approached by a chap from New England who had a beard slightly longer that mine, he had overheard me asking for a bed. Had the pub not been able to put me up they would have offered me a bed on their narrow boat. How kind, I would have enjoyed a night on a boat.
They will pass me tomorrow on their way to the Falkirk Wheel – a sight I have wanted to see for many years. Narrow boats are restricted to fairly slow speeds so they may not be much faster than me walking. I wonder where we will pass each other.
Solo Backup Team
Kerriann here. As Graham just mentioned in his previous entry, I will be heading off to Scotland in Dickie to meet him at the end and bring him home in one piece. I will be writing about my, hopefully, not very terrifying journey on our motorhome blog Travelsindickie if anyone would like to have a read.
Wheel and Tunnel
It’s funny but I’m not sleeping well in hotels. I’m waking up in the night with sweat-soaked sheets. I’ve been opening the windows where I can but maybe the rooms are still too hot or maybe I’ve simply become accustomed to sleeping in a cold damp tent!
Walking the tow path I met one of the work men that I passed yesterday; he was strimming the
verge of the canal. We chatted briefly but deciphering the local accent is becoming a problem. But he told me that he walks 24 miles strimming the Union Canal then starts on another. He said he loves his job and it keeps him fit.
I waved at the boat whose occupants I met last night in the Inn where I was staying – the bearded man from New England ran to the front of the boat and shouted best wishes and good luck to me. I thought that they would catch me up before the Falkirk Wheel but didn’t see them again – maybe they passed me when I stopped for brunch in Linlithgow.
Before arriving at ‘The Wheel’ I was unexpectedly let through a canal tunnel which was dimly lit and quite spooky- my first stretch of subterranean path on the walk.
‘The Wheel’ is a wonderful example of excellent engineering – I watched it for an hour or so as it quietly and effortlessly transported boats from the elevated Union Canal to the lower Forth and Clyde Canal. It’s the sort of machine that I wished I had designed and one that my dad ( a science teacher) would have used in lessons as an example of simple physics being used in a practical way. For more information check out Falkirk Wheel.
Despite the rain I covered a good distance today but have had to book into another Inn in the lovely-sounding town of Bonnybridge. The locals are being very friendly in the bar but to be honest I am struggling to understand a word anyone is saying.
I have been looking at the maps and think I can cut a few miles of my planned route whilst also avoiding some of the northern Glasgow suburbs. So be warned Malcolm ( the map master); I may be taking a short cut to the West Highland Way. I also feel like a rest day but will wait until I’m somewhere nice and the weather is bad – it’s a shame to waste a good walking day.
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Whilst writing my notes the bar got quite busy, apparently because of ‘the game’ . I have no idea what game it is but the 5 large television screens in the bar seem to have a lot of people watching (and screaming at) them.
Those of you that know me well will realise this is not my ideal environment. I know nothing about football and am going deaf so don’t particularly like noisy pubs – throw in an accent that I can’t understand and you will realise why I tried to retire to my room early.
That is until my key card didn’t work in the door. I had to go back down to the bar and try and attract the landlady who was busy due to ‘the game’. She came and tried the card and agreed with me – it didn’t work.
Eventually she gave me a free pint to stall me whilst she found a man who could sort things out. So I am back in the noisy bar – I think ‘the game’ has finished and that there is a lesser one on now. A polite chap (the manager?) has just handed me a new card and explained that the girl had given me one for the wrong room and he seemed confident that the new card will work………
Fingers crossed.
Do You Think I Need New Boots?
A Day Off …finally
I thought about staying another night in Bonnybridge but although I had a very nice room the Inn was not offering breakfast until 10 AM – far too late for me and the bar was not to my taste. It was very noisy with TV screens on every available wall space and gaming machines in every nook and cranny. The people were extremely friendly; a visit to the bar would normally provoke one of the locals to hold out a welcoming hand ‘hi I’m Jimmy, nasty weather oot there’ or similar. But because of my deafness and their accents I found it very difficult to converse.
So I decided to move on.
I set out on the trail that I found on the map yesterday – I had missed it when planning my route. Basically It cut off a corner and saved me walking through the suburbs of North Glasgow.
Much of the route is The John Muir Way and it has, after 20 miles, brought me to Strathblane where I’m booked into a rather nice old inn for two days. Yes two days! I am at last taking a day off from walking. The weather forecast is dreadful and I’m feeling a little tired so I’m looking forward to a day doing very little or even nothing at all.
Last night I noticed the state of my right walking boot. For some while it’s been showing signs of cracking across the toe area; this crack is now quite deep. Rather more alarming is that a large chunk of rubber sole has disappeared from the toe of the same boot. The left boot is in far better condition. Maybe I am heavy footed on my right hand (foot?) side?
The boots were bought specifically for this trip and other than about 100 miles of breaking in were brand new when I set out so they are covered by warranty. I will try and make them last to Fort William where Cotswold Outdoors have a branch and see what they say. My biggest worry is the thought of breaking in a new pair of boots whilst on a big walk. I must say that I’ve not had any blisters or foot problems yet (I’m touching wood), other than a general aching and throbbing at night.
I might also treat myself to some new socks. My favourite walking socks are made by Bridgedale and some of the pairs that I am using on this trip could be over 10 years old; well used and darned several times.
Again, touching wood, the rest of my kit is doing well although I might ask Cotswold if they do a larger rucksack cover; mine struggles to fit over the bag if I have anything (like a water bottle) in the side pockets. All of my clothing is in colour-coded waterproof dry sacks within the rucksack so a little water getting in is not a major problem but it would be nice to resolve the issue.
‘Colour coded clothing bags? What is he on about?’ I hear you ask. Blue for clean clothes, orange for dirty clothes, green for worn once or twice but still clean enough to wear again. All very organised! The dry bags with clothing in also make very comfortable pillows in my tent.
But I have a proper bed and pillows tonight…….
Lovely Ladies of Strathblane
John Muir was a Scot who emigrated to America where he became known as John of the Mountains. Back in the late 19th and early 20th century Muir was an active environmentalist. When he took President Roosevelt camping in Yosemite Valley it resulted in a massive change of awareness and an organisation like Friends of the Earth grew out of his efforts. The John Muir Way was opened in 2014 in recognition of his achievements, to promote environmental issues, and to ‘bring him home’ to Scotland. Be aware that it is not marked on older OS maps!
Kerriann and I walked some of this path, along the southern banks of Loch Lomond when we visited the area in our motorhome. I’m looking forward to re-visiting that area.
Because of the slight modification to my planned route I will be joining the West Highland Way a little higher up than planned which means that I missed the opportunity to purchase a guide book/map at the start of the walk.
As I’m having a day off in Strathblane I took a stroll down to the shop and cafe and had a cuppa. I asked the lovely ladies that run the teashop if they knew where I might purchase the above – she couldn’t think of anywhere. A few minutes later she came to my table with a folder -‘ I just printed this off the internet for you …. I put it in a folder to protect it from the wet’.
They wouldn’t even accept payment for the paper. So if ever you are in Strathblane, call in to the Pestle and Mortar for a cuppa and a chat.
In the shop next door I purchased more AA batteries for my GPS. If I’m walking without an OS map, even on good way-marked trails with a guide book, I want to make sure that my trusty Garmin Dakota stays working, especially if I’m wild camping. Buying the batteries reminded me of my walk across Spain many years ago.
Unbeknownst to me I acquired the Camino name of Duracell Man because of my habit of keeping going when all the others had stopped. I have never been a fast walker but I just keep on plodding. It was difficult for me to take a day off today although I know it’s the sensible thing to do.
There seems to be another game on and I can hear the raucous cheering of the locals from the bar below. Maybe there is a rule in Scotland that everyone must gather at their local bar and drink, chant and shout whenever a game is on?
I suppose this is all part of the walk. I’m experiencing Scottish culture but I do hope that things quieten down before I go down for my dinner.
Am going to give my boots another good waterproofing/conditioning with Nikwax in the hope that I can make them last the next 100 miles to Fort William. As well as the obvious damage I have just noticed how little tread there is left on them and have taken a couple of photos for the record.
Wolfy Cuteness Alert
raham sent these photos through this morning. He’s hit the West Highland Way and came across a shepherd’s hut that served free tea and…wait for it…….had a wolf pup and wild cat living in there.
These Banks Are, Indeed, Bonny
It’s good to be walking again after my day off. The weather has been fabulous – far better than forecast – the sun was out but not too hot, the wind was blowing but not too much and the hills were there but not too steep.
Walking the West Highland Way is yet another of my ambitions being fulfilled; it has been on my bucket list for many years. I always imagined that it would be a very difficult walk but it appears to be only difficult in sections. I think Rannoch moor might be one of those sections and The Devil’s Staircase doesn’t sound as if it’s easy going! I will find out over the next few days.
I did around 18 miles of relatively easy walking today. It was a little hard on the feet though; not much grass and lots of hard surfaces like compressed gravel. My boots are hanging on in there; no more obvious problems with them.
It was lovely to meet the West Highland Way Trust Team in their home-made shepherd’s-hut-style caravan made from recycled materials. I think I can feel a project coming on.
The trust raises money to help with search and rescue, does litter picking and lots of other good work. They give free tea and Mars Bars to walkers and hope for donations to their cause.
Of particular interest were their pets – a baby wolf and a tame wild cat! The wolf has been imported from Russia; apparently they have no fear so are particularly good for lowering from helicopters in search and rescue situations.
The wild cat was a rescue and they think it is the only tame wildcat in Scotland.
Because of abuse and over use, wild camping has been banned on the east banks of Loch Lomond. Yes I am on the bonny bonny banks of Loch Lomond – so I am camped on a commercial site. I am sure that I could tuck myself away on the hills above the path and not be noticed but I respect the wardens, and the reasons for the regulations so I’m being a good boy.
Such great folk music on radio Scotland.
Knee Expert Needed
A good day’s walking on a gorgeous trail. Quite a busy trail, apparently 80,000 people a year walk this way and most of them seem to be out this week.
I don’t blame them, the weather is perfect.There are a lot of first time walkers on the West Highland Way and some of them are really suffering – one couple of nice chaps that I met, Craig and Steff, were struggling. Craig has problems with his hips and Steff with blisters and foot pain. I do hope they are OK and that I run into them again tomorrow.
This reminds me of walking the Santiago de Compostela across Spain – every day or two you meet someone that you have met before and everybody supports each other.
This is also a very cosmopolitan walk, I have met people from Australia, America, Germany, Holland, Poland, and many more places.
I have been getting a strange pain in my right leg just above my knee on the inside. I assume that this is a slightly pulled mussel (oops I mean muscle)
and hope that it’s nothing more serious. It hurts mainly when I am going down hill – not a sharp pain but enough to worry me a little. Any experts out there? Are there any stretches or exercises that might help this problem?
I am in a lovely bothy tonight with a few other hikers – we are getting the fire going to deter any midges rather than create warmth but it also makes it quite homely. Mind you it already has homely ornaments on the windowsill!
Busy on the West Highland Way
A fairly good night in the bothy – it would have been an excellent night had two lads not arrived at 11 o’clock at night when all of the rest off us were fast asleep…….never mind.
I have not had any wifi all day so have not been able to read the advice that Kerriann tells me has been sent regarding my leg pain. Thanks anyway – I will try and get it later but there is no 3 or 4G phone signal here so it might not work.
The good news is that the leg has been very much better today. I think a combination of being gentle with it yesterday, the anti- inflammatory tablets and creams and a good(ish) night’s sleep has done the trick.
I’m noticing that I have quite a lot of insect bites on my legs and a few on my face so have just applied loads of anti-midge spray – I will do the same in the morning.The ‘Way’ was very busy today and I kept meeting the same people over and over. One would stop for a break and the other would pass then the other way round. One woman I met had booked the walking week with some girlfriends then tripped on a paving stone resulting in multiple fractures. Rather than cancel the trip she was walking a ‘lite’ version of the walk and meeting up with her friends in the evening. She was getting pain from the metal pins holding her foot together. Her ‘lite’ walk was incidentally long and quite strenuous by most peoples’ standards. Good for her.
There were a lot of strugglers on the trail again today – lots of blisters and muscle pains – often the young macho men with all the kit and usually with overloaded rucksacks.
I met a lovely group of American women who were clearly enjoying every moment of their holiday. They asked how far I had walked and on checking the gps it was exactly 900.0 miles – they were somewhat surprised and got a fellow walker to take a picture of me with them. Maybe they will send this blog a copy….
I think having a cheery disposition like these ladies helps on a walk – even when limbs and feet are aching singing a song or trying to walk with a relaxed spring in your step makes the pain a little easier to bear.
The views today have been superb – I will let the photos speak for themselves.
I am in a beautiful but not ideal spot tonight – lovely views but on a bit of a slope and quite close to a railway line. At about 6 pm I had done enough walking for the day and this spot looked better that it actually is. I think I will sleep well though.
Kerriann has set out from home in the motorhome assisted by Hugo out little dog. She has taken it to Taunton and had the MOT renewed and has had to stay an extra day to get new break disks/pads fitted. Then she will slowly make her way up to Scotland and support me on my last leg up to John O’Groats. This is a big adventure for her – agreeing to drive a big motorhome all the way up here is no mean feat. Well done K!
Found My Namesake Pub
I have just pitched my tent next to the river around the back of the Kingshouse Hotel.
Clearly I had to stay at a place called Kingshouse.
The walk today was across Rannoch Moor which the guide books warn us ‘can be a very tough stage of The West Highland Way if the conditions are poor. Luckily, today, the conditions were wonderful and the walk was easy if a tad long.
It was especially long for me because I wandered down the wrong track for a mile and a half and had to retrace my steps – never mind.
At Inveroran I had a pint of shandy ‘on the house’ because I had walked so far. I also had a nice toasted sandwich and another pint before the 10 mile hike across the spectacular Rannoch moor.
Tomorrow’s section includes The Devil’s Staircase which sounds like fun!
Off to the pub now for a proper evening meal – a real treat when wild camping.
Along the Devil’s Staircase
I knew it was dangerous camping near a pub. Needless to say I was led astray by fellow walkers who plied me with whisky. As soon as I walked into the pub I was invited to join a group of walkers that I had met earlier on the West Highland Way. A good night was had by all in this excellent pub, The Kingshouse Hotel climbers’ bar.
I didn’t have a lot to drink but I’m out of practice. Ive hardly touched a drop on this walk apart from the odd nip from my whisky flask. Still, I slept well once I’d found my tent.
I’ve made good progress north over the past few days and should make Fort William tomorrow in time to get my boots sorted out. I thing I’ll stay in a hostel or camp site so that I can get my washing done and have a decent shower; Im feeling a bit dirty.
I’ve just met some young walkers that were finding the walk too difficult so they ditched their tents and camping kit and went to B&Bs instead. Without the extra weight the walk has become a pleasure for them – they were walking with a bounce and chatting merrily – they obviously made a wise decision.
I am pitched beside the way in a lovely glen a few miles north of Kinlochleven.
Kerriann, Hugo and the motorhome are slowly heading north – it will be lovely to see them.
Waxing Lyrical
Yesterday’s walk was shorter than usual partly due to the hangover forced on me by fellow walkers. Today’s walk was also a mere 12 miles into Fort William where I am stocking up with supplies and sorting out my kit. Top priority was boots.
Fort William has more outdoor shops than any town could possibly need – every second shop is catering for the massive West Highland Way market. Having finish the WHW my memories of it are wonderful. The views are awesome – they almost moved me to tears. To wake up in a Scottish Glen surrounded by mountains with snow in gullies and clouds forming around their peaks, with the sun creeping over the horizon sending beams onto a distant loch, and realise that you are the only human to witness this show is very special indeed. Every day, every hour, the show is different. The interaction of sun and shadow on this landscape is fantastic but I think It might be a somewhat different experience in a winter blizzard. Strangely, I also enjoyed the interaction with people. I tend to be a bit of a loner when walking but I really enjoyed the comradery and the banter between the walkers on the WHW – it was rather like the Santiago de Compostela.
Having said that, I’m looking forward to walking my next leg – The Great Glen across to Inverness. I think I will enjoy the Caledonian canal and also Nessie watching on the banks of Loch Ness and lots of solitude.I called in to Cotswold Clothing and told them I had purchased my boots from their Truro branch a few months ago and showed them their condition – within 10 minutes they had issued me with new pair. Once again I congratulate Cotswold Outdoor for their excellent service. I had a chat with the manager and he pointed out the difficulty in recommending a boot for the type of walk I was doing i.e. Fell walking, mountain/ hill scrambling, grass/ gravel canal tow paths, paved and unpaved forest tracks. Most modern boots are designed to suit one of these categories not all of them.
I would also point out that, touch wood, I haven’t had any blisters yet unlike most of the walkers I have met on the WHW.
Staying in a B&B tonight to catch up with my washing.Congratulation to all my new friends who are completing the West Highland Way and commiserations to those who have had to drop out through injury. Those who have finished and those who haven’t have undergone a remarkable life enriching challenge and I look forward to meeting you again on another hillside path…
The Photos Will Do the Talking
Sore feet by a Lochy
Breaking in new boots on a long walk was never going to be easy but it has to be done. Also I have long thought that it is the feet that have to be broken in as much as the boots. Skin hardens where needed, leather softens and stretches – eventually the boots and feet adjust to become perfect matches – in theory. But today my feet hurt. Still, I covered 19 miles and have a lovely wild pitch by Lake Lochy. It even has a fire pit.A local info panel says that there are lots of Pine Martens here and that they are secretive and smelly – I can relate to that …
Breaking in new boots on a long walk was never going to be easy but it has to be done. Also I have long thought that it is the feet that have to be broken in as much as the boots. Skin hardens where needed, leather softens and stretches – eventually the boots and feet adjust to become perfect matches – in theory. But today my feet hurt. Still, I covered 19 miles and have a lovely wild pitch by Lake Lochy. It even has a fire pit.A local info panel says that there are lots of Pine Martens here and that they are secretive and smelly – I can relate to that …
The Great Glen Way
The Great Glen Way is a lovely walk but for me not a patch on the West Highland Way.Maybe my view will change tomorrow but today’s walking was a lot of forestry tracks, old railway lines and yet more old military roads all of which tend to be wide and straightish. There were some lovely glimpses of Loch Ness but not as many as I had hoped for – still not seen the monster. Maybe my slightly less upbeat review is due to my feet still aching because of the new boots or maybe because of the rain. I have had lovely sunshine all day and made good progress to Fort Augustus where I had a lovely meal. After lunch I climbed the hill in scorching heat and took a nap resting on my rucksack. I was awoken by a lovely couple of German walkers who were much amused by my snoozing and much impressed by the distance I have covered.
I carried on till about 5.30 when the sky was clouding over – as I started pitching my tent the rain started – I got the tent up and got in it in record time and that is where I am writing this – it is still raining outside but I am nice and snug. I just hope it all dries up for tomorrow’s walk.I am amazed to see that I have covered nearly 25 miles today.
Map Master Update
Malcolm has done another update on Graham’s maps
Here is the latest
One Thousand Miles
Yes I have walked 1000 miles and more. I was hoping that the 1000 mile point would be somewhere special and as my gps was reading 999.8 a deer ran across the path in front of me.
I walked to that point and the gps declared that I had walked 1000 miles. As I was on my own I marked the point with a 1000 in sticks and ‘miles’ in little gravel stones so that I had something to photograph.I was then passed by a group of fellow walkers that I had seen yesterday; they were suitably impressed with my milestone.
Just reached Drumnadrochit and met the group again so have put my slightly damp tent up in the corner of the tourist carpark. There is a nice flat grass verge next to a field with a cow in it and I hope that the carpark will be quiet at night. Not my usual middle of nowhere type pitch but it might be good to go out for a meal tonight and celebrate.
A Walk in the Woods
The bulk of today’s walking has been on woodland tracks. Most Scottish woods consist of neat rows of fast growing pine trees planted in the twentieth century but there are moves afoot to restore highland woodlands to their former glory. These areas originally supported a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees but centuries of plundering for ship building and military use means there are very few mixed woodlands left.Along the Great Glen Way, and in other parts of Scotland we can see that more birch, oak, rowan and other indigenous trees are being reintroduced and the wild life loves it.
I was delighted to stumble across the delightful, Abriachan campsite and cafe in the woods and I stopped for a lovely cup of real tea (made with tea leaves, not bags). This is the proper home-made, shack in the woods, off-grid technology that I love and the best tea ever. Do not pass it by, stop for a cuppa and you may even get to meet Oink the pig.
But the highlight of today has to be meeting up with Kerriann and Hugo in Inverness. Yes, Kerriann has driven all the way up here to support me on my final leg to John O’Groats – good on her!
A Day Off In Inverness
I’m having a rest day today and have walked a few miles into Inverness town centre with Kerriann and Hugo to top up supplies.I purchased the last 6 OS Explorer for the final leg of my trip to John O’Groats which is now less than 200 miles away (I think – need the map master to confirm). I also purchased enough walking pole ferrules (rubber ends) to last me to the end of this trip.If all goes according to plan I will walk some twenty miles to a camp site where Kerriann can meet me. Kerriann is however expecting some important documents in the post and if they do not show up she will have to stay in Inverness for another night and meet up with me in the next day or two further up the coast. Bearing this in mind I have stripped my backpack down to bare essentials – I still have to carry a tent and sleeping bag but do not need to carry more than the one set of clean clothes, or a stove and gas. Lightening the load one carries makes a huge difference. A heavy pack puts strain on the whole body so a lighter pack will be very welcome.
This last leg of my walk will consist of a lot of country lanes, forest tracks and weaving around the busy A9. It is the only section of the whole walk that I am at all worried about but it is just about impossible to get away from the dreaded main road. I will just have to be extra vigilant when crossing the road. The problem is when walking for long periods in the quiet countryside it is easy and possibly desirable to enter into a trance, a state of mind when you notice the wild life around you and day dream the miles away – this state of mind is not compatible with fast cars and trucks.
I promise I will be careful.
Onwards and upwards.
Leaving the Black Isle
Today’s walk, as expected, was mainly on minor roads and tracks with the odd encounter with a main road. In planning, I tried to pick a route that was completely off road but that is impossible for this final section so I am following the John o’Groats Trail. This is a relatively new long distance path which is still a ‘work in progress’ but the team that has put it together have saved me (and I dare say a lot of others) an awful lot of work. They have filled in the missing link for LeJoG walkers and come up with a route from Inverness to the top of Scotland.
Whilst this sort of road walking is not my favourite, today’s trek was quite pleasant and I managed 19.7 miles across the Black Island to the camp site in Evanton where I met up with Kerriann and Hugo.
It was interesting to note how few dwellings there are in this part of Scotland – there is a lot of space. The buildings that are around are either large farm houses with Range Rovers in the driveways or 1970s style bungalows. Just occasionally you will see an old cottage still occupied but most are derelict. I notice that the Glenmorangie distillery is close to tomorrow’s route. Will I get distracted by it?
Watch this space to find out …
The Healing Well
The photographs of the strips of cloth tied to trees are from the Cloutie (pronounced clootie) Well in Munlochy.
I talk about cloutie wells in my book The British Book of Spells and Charms. Traditionally, to cure an ailment you tear a strip of cloth from clothing near the problem, soak in the spring (well) water and tie it to a tree. As the cloth decays the problem disappears. In Mulochy the area around the well has hundreds, if not thousands, of clouties hanging in the breeze performing their magic.
Geraldine Beskin of Atlantis Bookshop Reviews Graham’s Book
The Atlantis Bookshop in London is one of the most well known esoteric bookstores in the UK. Owner Geraldine Beskin reviews Graham’s book The British Book of Spells and Charms.
Every now and again, a little honey of a book appears and you just know you will love it and use it. The British Book of Spells and Charms is just such a lovely chunky little thing that it is almost obviously nowadays that Troy Books have published it. It is fresh and pretty and simply crying out from some wax from an old school guttering candle so when it is passed on it has even more character.
The author is well known for his long association with the Witchcraft Museum and he has chosen useful examples of charms that may well be hundreds of years old but they still work today. There are even some county variations so showing a loyalty to your family’s origins can be a part of the sympathetic magic bought into play to effect the positive outcome. This is practical, no nonsense, no frills, household problem solving if someone has got a stye on their eye or a handful of warts, a toothache or a tummy ache. It wouldn’t be complete without love spells and has others to aid sleep. The contents are so interesting, the illustrations so good, that it could be a long night before you put it down so maybe the charm against the night riding spirits will be handy.
His book is available at The Museum of Witchcraft and Magic in Boscastle or from publisher Troy Books.
Dornoch Appealing
Another longish walk today partly in the rain.The first half of the walk was on minor roads and the afternoon was mainly forest tracks.
I deviated from my planned route a little so that I could finish at the campsite that Kerriann has taken the motorhome to. We had hoped that we could park up at the Glenmorangie Distillery but when Kerriann popped in to purchase a bottle for me they were very nice but couldn’t let motorhomes stay overnight. Never mind – the campsite is fine but it did mean a slight diversion.
The paths through the forest were not where they should have been – Many of the tracks marked on the OS maps were no longer there and others that did exists were not marked at all.
In the end I decided to simply take a bearing and go for it – walk in the right direction for about two miles through thick woodland – this was great fun but very slow. I ended up within where I intended to end but an hour later than I expected too. The forest up here are seriously big, I cant think of a southern woodland that you could walk for miles in without crossing a track.
Walking in the woods filled every crevice, pocket and fold in my clothing with needles but it was a great change from road walking and I now smell like lavatory cleaner.
Going to have a shorter walk tomorrow and a look around Dornoch.
Dornoch – The Place of the Witch
Just walked 8 miles today so that Kerriann could take the motorhome to Embo and walk back to meet me at Dornoch for lunch.Part of the walk was alongside the main A9 to cross the Dornoch Firth – as expected this was not fun with vehicles whizzing past. After the bridge, however, my route took me on a lovely lane that ran parallel with the coast for the remaining few miles.
Sadly Dornoch is famed for being the site of the last execution (by tarring, placing in a barrel and burning alive) of an alleged witch in 1722 or 1727 (the date on the stone is apparently wrong).
It’s nice to have a Tilley Hat again – Kerriann brought me up my replacement for the one I lost at the start of my walk. Yesterday it was especially useful in keeping the rain off my glasses and today it kept the sun out.
A Fairytale Walk
Yesterday a nice chap in a car pulled alongside me on a country lane and offered me a lift into town. I declined the lift and he said, ‘very sensible, you are now walking in the best county in Britain and you’ll be amazed by what you see … god willing you may even see an eagle’.
Well to be honest I have read too many miserable accounts of the last leg of Lands End to John O’Groats walks to believe that I would be amazed by wonderful sites. I was wrong. Today I was truly amazed by the beautiful scenery and wildlife. Sometimes it was almost surreal. I was walking along a deserted sandy beach when a fairytale castle appeared, then the seals started calling whilst the waves crashed around them. I had to pinch myself to make sure it wasn’t a dream.
I sang to the seals and they came very close to see who was making the dreadful noise. What did I sing? A mashed up version of the Selkie of Sule Skerrie of course in a very bad Scottish accent. Luckily nobody but the seals heard me – I hope.
I feel so sorry for the walkers who have slogged up the A9 like Richard who should have finished his LEJOG today (congratulations Richard!) and missed this lovely stretch of coastline. Yes, I had to negotiate a couple of barbed wire fences and walk on a railway line but it was worth it.
A local farmer said that walking on the railway line was the best route – ‘the train isn’t due till 2 o’clock and I doubt if there are any specials’ – so I decided to risk it. The same farmer also said ‘we had the naked rambler through here last year – he walked on the railway line.’ Maybe the 2 O’clock tourists on the train saw more than they were expecting!
Kerriann has headed off ahead of me in the motorhome and stopped at Brora campsite. I called her on my phone and asked her how to find the site: ‘follow the coast path and turn left at the dead puffin’ was her response – that’s not a sentence you hear every day.
A Stunningly Challenging Coastal Walk
This morning’s walking was fabulous. Mile after mile of beautiful sandy beaches and only the birds to share them with.
This afternoon was also spectacular with regular sightings of deer on the cliff tracks. When I say tracks I mean deer tracks – the John O’Groats Trail ran out of tracks and guided me across open gorse and bracken covered cliff tops. This was rather like walking the Cornish Coastal path but without the path. I could have coped with this if the way wasn’t also peppered with deer fences. These stop everything passing except deer. I witnessed a family of deer jump one fence as if they were horses competing in the Grand National. But as an obstacle to man they are very effective.
I persisted with the route until I reached a river gorge crossing; there was no sign of a path, track or bridge so I backed out and resorted to a mile and a half of the dreaded A9 verge. But a I had a lovely day’s walking and it’s lovely to meet up with Kerriann, Hugo and Dickie the motorhome! Over 1105 miles covered – less that 100 to go!
Misty Day
The John O’Groats trail has again been more of a trial than a trail.
It has spectacular views and scenery but is incredibly hard work. I must have negotiated ten or more barbed wire fences this morning and the vegetation was up to my knees. This makes it very difficult to make any progress.
At one point I climbed over a difficult fence and a few meters on I found a box on a post. ‘Walkers open me’ a sign said. In the box was a log book for JOG Trail walkers – it only had one entry and that was dated early February. I don’t think anybody has walked the trail since then other than me. This is a lot of the problem the bracken and gorse have reclaimed it.
This morning was very misty and with high sea cliffs and no defined track the going was very slow and hard.
When I met Kerriann in Dunbeath, where we are staying the night, she told me that the campsite owner recommended an inland route on minor roads. So rather than struggle on with the JOG Trail I have decided to re route via the Grey Cairns of Canster.
I think that I’m now only a few days away from the finish line. I suppose I’m looking forward to it but have mixed feelings – it will be lovely to not have aching feet, back and body but what will I do all day?
Rather than worry about that I think I will try to concentrate on enjoying my last few days of this incredible adventure and reflect on all the lovely people and places and experiences that have left an impression on me.
Cairns of Camster
I have been road walking today but at least most of it was on very quiet country lanes. Heading exactly north through an ancient landscape dotted with hut circles, standing stones and cairns. I ended up meeting Kerriann and the motorhome in a lay-by next to the magnificent Grey Cairns of Camster. Why are these wonderful chambered cairns not better known? If you visit, which you definitely should, don’t wear your best clothes – to gain access you have to crawl into the low, narrow entrances.
It’s interesting to contemplate the fact that ancient man clearly walked exactly the same route that I am currently wandering and left plenty of clues that have survived the harsh Scottish weather.
It saddens me that so many of the old farm houses and buildings in this area are empty and a lot of those that are not empty have ‘for sale’ signs by the front gate.
I’ve just pulled the last OS map out of the the bundle and highlighted the new proposed track to John o’ Groats which is now less that 30 miles away.
It is strange to think that my long walk is drawing to an end. In many ways it saddens me but I know that I do have to return to a more normal life style.
For the time being I will concentrate on tomorrow’s walk to Watten and hope that today’s rain has passed over.
Spare a thought for Kerriann who has had to drive Dickie the motorhome along the very narrow, single track roads that I have chosen to walk. She has done brilliantly.
Watten Amazing Place
A short day of flat walking along the quiet back lanes of Caithness.
Again I have been walking in ancient footsteps – the way has been dotted with hut circles and standing stones. The juxtaposition between the 3000-year-old standing stones and the modern wind farm is an interesting one.
It’s been a short walk because we chose a nice loch-side wild camping location at Watten for me to meet up with the motorhome. I’m not keen on walking along roads other than country lanes and Kerriann is not keen on driving Dickie along the very narrow roads which means there are not many places where we can meet up.
Loch Watten looked ideal on the maps and when I arrived after some 4 hours Kerriann had found a lovely flat place to park in the shade, alongside the loch.
So today I’ve walked about 8 miles but tomorrow I will be walking around 18 miles to a campsite just 2 miles from John o’Groats. On Saturday, all being well, I should complete the last two miles of my marathon journey.
I’m not sure how I will feel about finishing; mixed emotions. Sadness, pride, elation? We’ll see.
Penultimate Map
Malcolm has done the most recent map just before Graham finishes the walk – not long to go.
Penultimate Day
A long slog on a boring road to start the day. At leat the road was very quiet; less than one car an hour I would say. The highlight of the morning was seeing an eagle. This massive bird flew up some distance in front of me and flew towards me for a while. I fumbled around trying to get my phone out of my pocket to take a photo but the bird went higher and higher then drifted away to the west.
Towards the end of today’s walk, views of the coast made the walk much more interesting. I met up with Kerriann and Hugo in Huna campsite just a mile and a half from John o’ Groats. Yes, less than an hour’s walk to finish!
Tomorrow morning I will finish the job.
A friend (Philip) suggested that I carry on up the coast to Dunnet’s Head which is the most northerly point of Britain but to be honest I can’t be bothered.I didn’t visit the most southerly point in Britain on this walk so I don’t feel the need to visit the most northerly, especially as it would involve walking along the A836 – so John o’ Groats will be the end of this walking adventure.
I will write my concluding blog tomorrow after the short walk. Tonight I just feel shattered after 18 miles of road walking …
He’s Done It!
All Done … And Thanks
I have finished!
I walked into John o’ Groats this morning and completed my walk.
First I would like to thank Kerriann for all her help in this adventure especially driving all the way up to the North of Scotland in the motorhome to support me on the last leg.
Also all of you who have left messages of support on the blog or sent emails during the walk – on a cold damp evening in a tent in the middle of nowhere these messages make a huge difference.
Thanks to the great people of the mountain bothies association who give their time, efforts and money to provide free accommodation for nutters like me in the most remote and beautiful locations.
Thanks to Malcolm the map master for all of his hard work providing you and me with maps, statistics and forecasts throughout the walk.
Thanks, too, to the people who kindly put me up for the night, gave me breakfast and generally looked after me.
Thanks to The National Trust and all of the organisations that look after our wonderful countryside, especially those responsible for preserving our incredible network of footpaths. Thanks to the walkers, postmen, beach combers, dog walkers, dustmen, council workers, tourists, cyclists, lock keepers, drivers and everybody that took the time to lean on a gate and pass the time of day with me – it is you that made my journey very, very special.
If my walk has inspired anyone to set out on a similar adventure I am delighted.
If I can offer an advice or share any lessons learned on my journey just ask.
Lessons learnt or relearnt?
Have absolute faith that the universe will provide what you need to survive when you need it.
People are lovely.
Most hills are not as high or as difficult as they look.
We are capable of doing a lot more than we think.
We live in one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Now I shall rest …
Celebrations
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Graham's Long Walk 
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