Day 13 – 28th April

I was sad to leave my cosy bothy this morning. It was warm and snug inside and the weather outside was bloody freezing. But at least the sun was out for much of the morning. There was a little bit of hail as I crossed over the tops but as I dropped down to St Mary’s Loch I was pleased to see slightly clearer skies again.

St Mary’s Loch

Unfortunately the famous Tibbie Shiels Inn by the loch was closed but there was a great little cafe on the main road so it was not much of a diversion. As I approached the cafe the roar of about 50 motorcycles filled the air and I had to wait as the Blue Angels Bikers ordered their tea and tiffin (quite literally in the case of the chap in front of me).

this poem by James Hogg the Ettrick Shepherd was placed along the trail

I eventually ended up with a pot of tea for two with one cup, a good cheese burger, and the memory of a giant leather-clad biker asking for tiffin – most amusing. I got talking to the owner after they’d all left and she told me she’d started off as the toilet cleaner and ended up owning the business. Very impressive.

a popular spot

When I reached the end of St Mary’s Loch I pitched my tent and could see that others had used this site before. There were quite a few stone fire pits dotted around. It didn’t take long for two cars to pull up, erect their tents and lightt fires. I hope they’re not too noisy.

pitch (almost) perfect

Covered around 16.6 miles today.

3 responses to “Day 13 – 28th April”

  1. Your account brings back lots of good memories for me. I remember that popular café which was superb and I arrived there in time for a second late breakfast or an early first lunch! Oddly I see now that I didn’t mention the café in my blog account. I was enjoying excellent weather and I’d camped quite high near Scabcleuch Burn the previous night after a long day. I had left Moffat (where I had stayed overnight) on the high route that you followed then when I arrived at the metalled road down Ettrick Valley, I took an unofficial diversion mentioned briefly in the Cicerone Guide. It went over Bodesbeck Law and along an undulating ridge to Peniestone Knowe before descending to my camp site. It was a glorious walk on the ridge with the perfect weather conditions. Looking at what I had walked that day, no wonder I thought I deserved a feast in the middle of the next morning!

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    1. I am delighted that I am bringing back fond memories for you Kathryn. I found that high route quite tough.

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  2. Hi Graham

    love that joyful poem

    Helenxxx

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